Brief Thai lesson

This started out as a post on the village fair I went to Thursday night. But the intro seems worthy of a separate post all its own.

All Thais have nicknames. The person at work who took me to the village is nicknamed 'Doc'. Actually, I think I've spelled it 'Doc' in English because he's a doctoral student, but I don't think it means that in Thai. I'm not sure how it's spelled in Thai so it's hard to look up. I think (I started to write 'know' but I realize most things that people have told me in Thai, it's safer to think of as "might be') someone said his nickname starts with the letter ต rather than ด
The ต has a little dip on top and is pronounced as though you were saying Tea, but without breathing out a puff of air. If you put your hand in front of your mouth when you say Tea out loud, you'll feel a little air coming out. Linguists call this an 'aspirated' sound - because breath comes out. Now try to say it without the air coming out. (Unaspirated.) That's the ต sound. The ด is like the English letter D. The two letters are very similar, but not the same. Listen here to the difference. NOTE: Click on the yellow arrow NOT the link which will take you to jamglue.

Thai letter ต imported by AKRaven

Thai Letter ด imported by AKRaven

(In the second audio clip he says the Thai sound of the letter - is we would say "dee" - and then the word that starts with the letter that is used when kids are taught the alphabet. In this case the word is 'dek' or child.)

It can be pretty hard to hear the difference, but think how people learning English must feel. We have so many more different sounds and some with very subtle differences. This is no more difficult than the difference between, say, "rode" and "wrote". And if you listen to how people actually say these in a sentence, they often don't even say the sounds. The difference is really that you hold the 'o' in rode but you stop it quickly in 'wrote.' Or bead and beat. Or 'slip' and 'slipped'. We barely make the sound. For Thais who don't have a final 'd' sound or a 'pt' sound it is very hard to hear the differences.

Another subtlety of Thai are the loops in the letters. I didn't look closely enough and instead of ด, I typed ค, which is one of the aspirated K sound letters. Can you see the difference between the two letters?*

Attribution and Technical Note: I got the sounds from http://www.thai-language.com/ (You can go to each letter through the purple box on the left panel.) But to embed them in the blog so you could listen to them here instead of finding the right buttons on the website, I uploaded them to www.jamglue.com and then took the embed code and put that in my post. It is pretty incredible what tools are available to do this with. Thanks to the invisible techies who make all this possible.

*Difference between the letters: Look at the direction of the loop in the middle of each.

Breakfasts

There's lots to post about, I'll start slow. This was a typical breakfast at the Pooh Guest House for me. Rice soup with fruit and vegies. You could order eggs or whatever. Comes with the tab of about $30 per night. I think this was Thursday morning.
Friday lunch I was taken to a vegetarian center. If you only have one item with your rice the price is 0 Baht. I had several different dishes so it came to 25 Baht. The official exchange rate is about 32 Baht to the dollar.

This was Friday's breakfast which was sticky rice and four other dishes of greens and fish.
. Doc and I spent the night at this home in the village about an hour out of Chiang Mai. Below is the video of part of the breakfast talk. My understanding is that it is Northern Thai dialect, which is pretty close to Central Thai just pronouncing the words a little differently and some different words altogether.


[February 18: I was going to give a brief synopsis of the conversation at breakfast, but decided that given the Northern dialect and the rustiness of my Thai, that I better not. Good thing. I did get bits and pieces, but I put them together wrong. The guy was complaining about how the factories are not hiring workers over fifty now.]

Guest Post by Catherine Senungetuk

Since Guest Posts are hot these days and I'm already hot because I'm in Thailand, which is why I can't post about Anchorage, I thought I'd put up a guest post taken from an email from my friend Catherine Senungetuk.


February 14, 2007

This morning I'm meeting with Deborah Schildt about the possibility of collaboration... she's a filmmaker (maybe you saw her film about roasting little ground animals in Mongolia a year ago "How to Roast a Boo-Dog" I think it was called) we were both so inspired after seeing that performance [Bridgman and Packer] - she was at the same one and that's where we hatched this idea... I was so moved because I wanted to do something for my show in Cordova that was more multi-dimensional than a painting on the wall....

Joe has been attending the AK Forum on the Environment Conference, today he'll participate in an elders circle. I'll be seeing my acupuncturist and then checking out the new chocolate store in town that a friend has recommended.

Joe and I went to the opera Sunday - our neighbor's brother directed it and they had some comp tickets. Oh my goodness, I might be an opera fan now. It was the most amazing thing I've ever heard. I'm still awestruck. I didn't know the human voice could do those things. The set was also quite well-designed.

There are Short-Eared Owls out by the airport - we saw one on Sunday before we went to the opera. It's fun to see such a large bird, and they're fairly uncommon to have around in the winter.

Plans Change

Bing's grandmother is ill and he left for Petchbun last night. I got invited to lunch at a vegetarian restaurant, then we went to a bike shop, then to the one I'd gone to first and rented a bike. Back at work Doc invited me to go out to some villages tonight. Not sure what that means but it sounded like we might sleep over in the village. So I biked to the new place and put down the deposit. Then home. Quick shower and I'll go back in a few minutes.

House Hunting in Chiang Mai

Spent a little time each day looking for places to stay. Here's a glimpse of things I saw - first day in a car, second day walking to work and on the back of a motorcycle. There are houses and some turned out to be more like private dorms for students. Apartment houses. But finally someone in the office brought in a brochure that turned out to be the perfect place. Well, pretty good. It's in a quiet pocket, but a few minute walk to a main road. It's also about a 20-30 minute walk to my office. As you can see, I found my card reader to download the pictures.






Here's the place I liked, I've described it to Joan and she says to take it. So I'll go by today again. They are decent sized rooms, great windows, lots of trees around and view of Doi Suthep, the mountain next to Chiengmai.






They don't expect people to cook.



It's on the 4th floor, so we won't have to go to the gym, just up and down the stairs. It includes tv, internet. Electricity and water are extra. That makes sense since I'm sure farang (foreigners - actually I've heard people say "people from other countries" mostly rather than 'farang" this trip)tend to use a lot of water and electricity. Altogether it should be around $325 per month I'm guessing.

Mauer and Kizzia's Story on Seward

Jetleg had me awake at 4am yesterday and as I tried to go back to sleep, Monday's ADN story on Seward's part in the FBI investigations by Rich Mauer and Tom Kizzia wandered back into my consciousness from when I had quickly read the story on line a couple days earlier.

I have a couple of observations and a couple more details on the story.

Summary:

1. Rich and Tom did a fine job of reporting.
2. In this case the City of Seward public administrators (the career bureaucrats) courageously fought the decisions of the politicians, even putting their jobs on the line.
3. The case of Tylan Schrock again shows the corrupting power of power.

1. Rich Mauer and Tom Kizzia's good journalism.

Rich and Tom have been holding this story for a long time. I know Rich was interviewing people in the Seward city government back in August. I have two former students in Seward and I talked to one of them about all this back then. Rich was trying to get interviews. Would the student's job be in jeopardy for speaking to the press? The prospect was strong. The student had been warned by the then City Manager not to raise issues (just in the office, let alone the press.) So I only mentioned the story obliquely not wanting risk my former student's job. So while Rich had much of this story back in August, he held onto it until he got all the corroborating evidence - the documents he requested from the city, the key interviews (while the ex-student was already talking to the FBI, the student did also agree to talk to Rich.) And Rich has been respectful of the people he interviewed recognizing that they were taking risks just talking to him. So, all in all, this is some outstanding journalism that the people of Anchorage should be appreciative of. And it's part of a growing collection of pieces that the ADN, Rich particularly, has been offering the public on these topics. (I don't mean to downplay Tom's part in this, but I have talked to Rich about this story, but not to Tom.)

2. Public Administrators vs. Politicians

This is a distinction that is often lost on most people when they complain about government. It's really a story for another post. But I would point out it is the career politicians who do the daily work of government, who carry out the laws that politicians pass. And in the Seward story, it was the public administrators who strongly opposed the City's purchase of the earmarked property. What isn't mentioned in the story is that the public administrators put together a powerpoint presentation for the City Council that showed point by point the contractual relationship between the City and the Sealife Center and why, if I remember the details correctly, they shouldn't even allow the Sealife Center to purchase the property. The hope was that while enough Council members had personal interests in the property, at least the public would see what was going on when the powerpoint was shown at the meeting. But the Council decided to show the powerpoint in a closed session. At least one of the public administrators had foreseen this possibility and had distributed CD's of the powerpoint to some key Seward citizens, and the city manager approved posting it on the city website. The council (or maybe just the mayor) had it removed soon after, and the city manager was removed as well. The good news is that the fired city manager was elected mayor of Seward in the November election as were some less conflicted council members and the jobs of the public administrators who fought this are now much more secure again.

3. Tylan Schrock and the power of power

Tylan was also one of my students. He was very bright, very competent, and eager to make the world a better place when he graduated. In the Mauer/Kizzia story, Tylan is portrayed as the evasive director of the SeaLife Center, who appears to have arranged for the SeaLife Center to buy the property when the City of Seward said 'no', and who has recently announced his upcoming resignation.

I know Tylan pretty well. I was one of the people who recommended him for the job as assistant to the city manager at Seward when he graduated. And it was the right thing to do. Tylan had everything right and going for him. And he did such a good job for the City that they moved him over to the SeaLife Center because it belongs to the City and was not doing well. And since he moved there it has been doing very well. But it is important to note this line from the article:

The Alaska SeaLife Center has long been a favorite of Stevens, who has steered more than $50 million in federal funds to the nonprofit facility since it opened in 1998, including more than $3.5 million in the most recent appropriations bills. Schrock has been executive director for more than seven of those years.

There's no question that the SeaLife Center would be nowhere without the initial funding and continuing support of Ted Stevens' earmarks. (But I would also add that even with money an organization can be poorly managed. In fact having lots of money can make people careless - just watch the legislature. So while the money made Tylan's job easier, it alone didn't guarantee the success of the Center.)

My point, though, is that the Center was overwhelmingly dependent on Ted Stevens' earmarks. And remember that this earmark for purchasing McCabe's building was made in 2005. That was still a time when most Alaskan's were willing to look the other way while Ted was passing them money. It is easy to jump in and criticize Tylan, but it is also easy to see how difficult it might be to say no to person whose continuing financial support has made your organization possible.

That was how you played the game back then. It would be interesting to get a list of the people who have said 'no' to Ted Stevens when he was giving out money. Tylan didn't know the unofficial rules of the game were about the change. Neither did Anderson, Kott, or Kohring.

Now, we only have Mauer's story on this, so I don't want to say that Tylan is guilty of anything at this point (though Mauer's story is consistent with what I have heard myself). I'm not sure that he actually broke any laws. But let's assume that Tylan did knowingly arrange to use the earmark to buy the property through the SeaLife Center. My discussion above is only to understand why it happened, not to condone it.

The employees at the City of Seward had, in fact, said 'no' to the deal. They knew it was a bad deal and politically motivated. While the City of Seward is nowhere as dependent on Stevens as was the SeaLife Center, the employees themselves were risking their jobs in this action. And the City Manager lost his job. And, now, three years later Tylan has tendered his resignation (apparently, from what I've heard, not under pressure from the board) anyway. Doing what is right pays off in the long term.

As I watched the three trials last year I couldn't help but think about Pleasure Island in the movie Pinocchio.

Pleasure Island serves as a haven for wayward boys, allowing them to drink, smoke, and vandalize without recrimination. One of those boys is Lampwick, a tough bully of a boy that Pinocchio befriends. He smokes, drinks, plays pool, and then gets turned into a donkey. (from Duckman)

Luckily for Pinocchio, Jiminy Cricket, his conscience, helps him escape that fate. (While googling on this I found an accounting ethics book that uses the story of Pinocchio to help talk about ethics.)

Juneau is a lot like Pleasure Island. It's full of temptations, and three of the wicked boys who were sent to Juneau have been turned into donkeys. If anyone has any weaknesses the lobbyists in Juneau, like Stromboli, the puppeteer on Pleasure Island, exploit them. So far, the people who have been tried and convicted have been among the exploited. Anderson and Kott and Kohring are not wicked people, though they all had issues that made them exploitable. Three of the exploiters - Bill Allen, Rick Smith, and Frank Prewitt (and to a lesser degree Bill Bobrick) - have all made deals with the FBI and the Prosecutors. Maybe that is why they were the exploiters and not the exploited. They were smart enough to see the writing on the wall. I keep hearing rumors that more indictments are due any day (and since I'm not getting the ADN at my doorstep here in Thailand, they may have already come - I better look online before I post this.) and am hopeful that the drug lords (in this case money and power were the drugs) will be among the indicted, and not just the addicts.

This whole culture of power and money, I think sucked Tylan into a situation where he didn't thnk he could say no to the people who had made the SeaLife Center, itself a worthy institution, possible.

Quick Update

Going to visit some of the villages today with Bing. Not sur what that means. I worked on my work plans yesterday - writing in details of the general plan AJWS gave me before I came. Mostly working on strategic planning and staff development. Also found a place I think we'll take. It just feels right and the location is good and the price is reasonable by ex-pat standards and amazing by US standards if expensive to my co-workers.

I misplaced my card reader so I can't post any picture until I find it or get a new one. Had lunch at Wat Rampoeng yesterday. Turn out to not be 'down the street" from work, but next door. Very peaceful place. And they apparently have a fair number of foreigners meditating there.

Note: The blog is on Anchorage time. In Chiang Mai it is Feb. 14, 8:10am. Happy Valentines Day. Joan will be here Tuesday if all goes right.

Work - Day 1

Awake early again. 4am. Yesterday Grib and I got to the offices at 10. It really isn’t very far out - 3 or 4 kilometers at most in a pocket of less urbanity just south of Chiengmai University. The office is among a cluster of NGO offices all related to sustainable development, rights of local people, etc. I don’t recall ever being with Thai activists who were self identified that way.

Everyone was great. Patient with my slow Thai, ready to answer any and all questions and to get me settled in as easily and quickly as possible.

Here are my immediate co-workers.



And an overview of what the organization is doing. The five things the project is focused on:

Land, water, Forest land, debt, and prices of products.







Had lunch with Bing who eventually revealed that he has an extensive English vocabuluary. Then we drove around the area looking for places for rent. The only place we actually went into would have been perfect except that it would qualify as an extreme ‘fixer upper.” We went back to the office and looked on the internet. A friend of someone they knew had two places for us to look at. One is in a brandnew (no electricity yet, the pool is “½ month away from completion” - my interpretation was it won’t have water till we are back in Anchorage) hotel these people own. The rooms are ready and beautiful, but it’s kind of far away and the neighborhood isn’t very exciting. They also showed us a house they own. Again, it was very nice its way, but Joan would be pretty isolated and I’d have a long trek to work.


Some of the new vocabulary I’m working on:


Coordinate
Federation
Natural Resources
Organic (the Thai word is the same as the Thai word for eagle อินทรี , with an extra letter อินทรีย์ . The pronunciation is easy to remember - “In Sea”)
Land Reform
Action
Support
Empowerment

Lazy Sunday

Yesterday was spent doing errands. I was able to plug into the modem at the Guest House front office directly this morning to post and check email.. The router for the wifi wasn’t working. Then I went off to do my errands - get Thai money, get a sim card and program for my Thai cell phone
that we bought last year, lunch, found a bike shop, but put that on hold, got a bunch of bananas, then came home. All this I did in a big mall that everything I needed with air conditioning. But I really hate these malls. The picture is where I bought the cell phone, one of about 50 similar little cell phone shops in the same location at the mall.




While things are very commercial, there are still hints of old Thai culture like this Wat (temple.)








This is a typical street scene. When the bicycles became motorcycles and then cars, the streets just weren't ready and pedestrians and bikes really get little consideration in the infrastructure.


Here's another temple I walked through on the way back to the Pooh Cottage Guest House where I'm staying.




Melissa, the volunteer who had moved out last night was back because she’d left her towel here. She told me a little about apartment hunting and showed me the apartment she’d chosen, about a five minute walk away. The street is an expat section with lots of high rise apartment/condotels in all stages of construction. Her room is a spare white hotel room like setup. The main attraction is a large swimming pool on the third floor. B5000 /month, or about $150. But it’s pretty barren - lots of concrete, very little green. I felt a little guilty, I guess I should have spent the day looking at apartments. But she lives in New York City and so she’s more intuned with that sort of activity. We’ll see what the people at my organization have in mind for me.

Here's Melissa's pool.


We agreed to meet at 6:30 and go to the Sunday Night market. The weather was comfortable in the evening and we walked around a lot and found a very plain Thai restaurant with good food in the middle of the market.

Today Grib picks me up at 9:45am to take me to meet the staff at my NGO (Non-Governmental Organization.) I'm staying a little vague my work relationship with these people is more important than blogging. I'll try to write about this in as much detail as I can without compromising confidentiality and general human trust.

Some Thai Headlines

Saturday's paper was with this morning's (Sunday) breakfast. Here are a few of the stories from The Nation.[Link is apparently to the current edition. As part of my internet addiction withdrawal program, I'm not going to pursue how to get the Saturday edition.]

Noppadon: Thaksin to come back before May

The foreign ministers says that overthrown prime minister is due back soon now that his party has won the recent election.

Thaksin's wife Khunying (like Mrs. not her name) Pojaman had said earlier that her hsuband would return in May to defend himself aginst charges of abuse of power...

Street racers complete 'shock therapy'

After five days of 'shock therapy' at the Baan Metta Remand Home, 74 teenage boys arrested for street racing [motorcycles on a main street in Bangkok] were yesterday relaeased into the embrace of their waiting parents.

"I'm very glad that I'm going back home with ou, Mum. I will obey what you tell me," one 17 year old boy...told his mother ....

Department of Juvenile Observation and Protection director-general...said shock therapy was aimed at improving youth's behaviour in the short time. The authorities instructed them in many activities to improve their discipline, life skills and moral ethics, including painting, listening to sermons by monks, studying laws and practising military drills.

"On the fifth day of the program, they looked completely different fromt he first day, when ti was obvious that they were serious and distraught. Now they look cheerful..."

Producers Irked over price cuts

[The government has identified 30 items to have price cuts]

Aids activists fear about-face by Chaiya

Paisan and others met with Chaiya [new health minister] to ask him not to revoke compulsory licensing on Aids medicine. During the meeting Paisan mentioned that he might need to take weedkiller if he lost access to the medicine. "Then Chaiya said he would send jan flowers," Paisan said.
Thais lay jan in crematoriums as they bid their last farewells to the dead.

This was on the first page of the paper.


Shooting Death - Police tale fabricated: Pornthip This is about a 'top forensic doctor' (she has hip spiked hair in the picture) saying the police had to be lying about how a Canadian tourist was killed.

Valentine Kits

Members of the World Bank Youth Club hand out roses and condoms in Bangkok's Siam Square yesterday in a campaign ahead of Valentine's Day to urge young Thais to refrain from unsafe sex.

"Teachers needed, not computers."


Corruption Scandal: Saprang blames his 'crooked' friends

Enough, I've got things to do.