LA Times
From 1950 to 1979, the German automaker churned out over 4.7 million of them under different names and models —Westfalia, Samba, Kombi, Transporter — to create one of the most beloved lines of cars worldwide. Its basic frame — a raised, boxy body, a weak engine in the back, bench seats on the inside, a plethora of windows — attracted a devoted worldwide following. Aficionados turned them into everything from surf wagons and homes to taxis and work trucks. Even movable beer gardens.
“It’s the most easily recognized van or commercial vehicle on the planet,” says Brian Moody, executive editor of Autotrader.com. “Low operating cost, low purchase cost when Volkswagen made them. Globally, you can talk to a Brazilian who has great VW Bus memories. A Mexican. A European. An Indian. Not everyone had a Mustang convertible.”
But over the last decade, this once-humble workhorse has become something it’s never been: one of the hottest “gets” in the vintage auto world.
We got married in January, but we were both teaching elementary school. So the honeymoon was postponed until summer. We wanted to drive (from LA) to Machu Picchu but there were no Lonely Planet guides then and the Auto Club maps were blank as you got near the Panama Canal. We decided my VW bug wasn't a good idea and we should get a van. As we got closer to the end of the school year, we decided Machu Picchu was probably overly ambitious if we wanted to be
back in time for the fall semester. So we
decided to head north instead - to the end of the 'road. We looked on maps to find out where that might be. There was Hudson Bay on the other side of the continent and there was the Great Slave Lake and Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories.
And then, we decided a van would still be better than my bug. So that's how we ended up with a 1971 VW camper. I was hoping to find some pictures of it on that trip, but I couldn't find those slides.
But the next summer we planned out a more realistic trip headed south. We had seen an Academy Award nominated short of Mayan ruins and J fell in love with Tulum, and Palenque and Chichen Itza looked good too. We took around two months on that trip. I found a slide of the van in (then) British Honduras. We'd spent a night in the capital
We were on our way from the coast to Tikal in Guatemala. We really didn't know if we could get there via this route until we started meeting travelers who were driving the other way and said we could. The road from the capital (I remember it as Belize City, but Wikipedia says it change to Belmopan in 1971, the year before we got there) to Guatemala was dirt. We saw that
there was a viewpoint a big waterfall 17 km or so off the main road. We got there and had it all to ourselves. So we decided to spend the night. It rained all night and the road back to the main road was pretty muddy and we got stuck twice on hills. A British army Land Rover towed us up to the top of the first hill and another Land Rover with tourists staying a little bird watching resort pulled us out the second time and all the way to the resort where we had lunch and saw some birds.
In 1977 we drove from LA to Anchorage. We started out with a three year old and a three week old baby. It was a great trip, even when the engine blew out on the Oregon/California border. A tow truck got us to Brookings, Oregon where the mechanic ordered parts that afternoon from Portland and we were headed out the next day about 3pm with a new motor. We had a ferry to catch and he did everything he could so we could get it. And we did. Here we are after crossing the Canada/Alaska border after driving from Haines.
In 1980 I had a year long fellowship at NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) and we drove to DC. That was a great year and van gave us no trouble. We were taking the kids to Disney World over the spring break. As the break was nearing, the first space shuttle was set to take off. It got delayed a few times until it was close enough to our planned trip. So we took off a day early and drove all night to arrive at Cape Canaveral by 6am for the
launch. It was delayed again. So we went off to our hotel room at Disney World and the next day watched the launch from the balcony of our room. It wasn't as impressive as being right there, but we did see the white trail as it lifted off into space. After Disney World we went back to Cape Canaveral as tourists and this picture was at the beach there.
By 1995 the floor of the van had holes in it. It would get wet inside on rainy days and during breakup. Our mechanic - Kurt Schreiber in Wasilla (that's another story) - told us we'd gotten our money's worth and it was time. A young man who was working the summer at Denali bought it and took it up there as his living space.
We looked at replacing it with a new one, but the price was 10 times the original price. But after two years, and a visit from old friends who rented a camper on their Alaska adventure, we realized how important the van had been in our marriage. I wanted to be in the woods in a tent. J wanted to be in a hotel. The van had been our compromise. And I was getting really antsy about not being out enjoying the Alaska summers. So we asked our kids who were in Seattle and Boston at that time, to check out new vans to see if they were significantly cheaper than one in Anchorage. (The kids had been concerned when we sold the first van. We'd had since before they were born, the told us, and if we could get rid of the van, we could get rid of them too.) The VW dealers in Boston laughed at our daughter when she asked about campers. They just didn't sell them at all. Our son had better luck in Seattle. He could get one for $32K ($5000 less than in Anchorage). So he did and drove it up to Vancouver. We met him and our daughter and my dad and step-mom there (luckily there were good non-stop flights that summer from Anchorage). After we all had our Vancouver reunion, we drove back up to Anchorage. Here's our first or second night out of Vancouver.
It took a bit of getting used to the automatic (no stick was available) and power windows and different interior arrangements. But the pop-top was a great feature, we had a lot more power on hills, and J loved that the heater warmed the car to more then 10˚F above the outdoor temperature. And it even has another heater for camping in the cold. The first time we were camped with snow around us our little digital thermometer said "cold" in the morning. It didn't go below 32˚ we later found out. But I could turn on the heater and J stayed in the sleeping bags until it reached 50˚.
So the article meant a lot to me. We didn't get it because it was a hippie van (and really the earlier models were more in that image) but people assumed that for a long time. We just liked that we could buy a car with a bedroom and kitchen for not much above the average car price. And yet it's not any longer that the larger sedans and it fits in most parking garages. And we've saved a lot of money being able to sleep in the van on long trips. Even more important, we could easily spend the night in the woods, and even cook (in the new van) and eat indoors if the weather was terrible. And yes, the second one is outside in front of the house now. It's 22 years old. We did have some significant preventive maintenance done two years ago, including an undercoating so we don't get wet in the rain. We're looking forward to our annual spring Denali trip for a few nights before the buses start and they close the road to cars at Savage River.
Here's what it says right now:
Road Open To: Mile 15
The Denali Park Road is currently open to Mile 15, Savage River. If wintry conditions occur, the road may close at some point closer to the park entrance. Though many trails are snow-free, Savage River Loop and Savage Alpine Trails have significant ice.
We'll wait until the road is open to Teklanika.