Gallipoli - Why?

The Gallipoli Tour:  The bus picked us up Tuesday (October 22) at 7am, before the breakfast buffet opened.  So the hotel gave us sandwiches to take along.  We were headed to Gallipoli, where the Turks held off the British and French in 1915 and 1916.  

1.  Why did the British and French undertake what turned out a military failure that cost so many lives?

2.  Why were most of the people on our tour Aussies and Kiwis?

You military and World War I buffs, of course, know all about this, but The Dardanelles was a name I knew, and I sort of understood it was a shipping route to Istanbul.  Having been in Istanbul for a couple of weeks now, having taken a Bosphorus cruise to the edge of the Black Sea, and having ferried by the Marmara Sea,  I understand all this much better.  

For those of you who are like I was, I’m going to map this out.

Let’s start with the Black Sea.  It’s bordered by six countries.  What are they?  Start with Turkey and go clockwise.  

Turkey

No, not Greece, the Turkish border goes north of Istanbul

Bulgaria

Romania

NOT Moldova - it’s landlocked

Ukraine

Russia

Georgia

And on the western side of Turkey you can see the Aegean Sea.  Our day off Friday has been in Kușadası.  Our travel guy in Istanbul, Ilyas, got us into a hotel that’s got a balcony looking out at the Aegean Sea.  (See photo on the right.)

We could hear the waves. 

 Between the Black Sea and the Aegean Sea, you can see a small blue puddle - that’s the Marmara sea.   The picture below is looking toward the Marmara Sea.

Now back to Istanbul’s important location.  Further west and south of the Aegean Sea, you can see the Mediterranean Sea.  Russia is on the Black Sea, but needs to go through Istanbul to get to the Marmara Sea and then the Dardanelles to get to the Aegean Sea and then on to the Mediterranean Sea.  

But since on the map above Istanbul is just a dot, you can’t really see the wet significance.  So below is a map of Istanbul and its watery environment.  

All the white is Istanbul.  On the top and on the right is European Istanbul.  On the right is Asian Istanbul

.  The Bosphorus, coming from the Black Sea, flows into Istanbul. From the upper right.  Look closely, it says Bosphorus   The photo to the right is looking at European Istanbul from the Bosphorus. Then at the bottom you can see the Marmara Sea. .  On this map you can see how the Bosphorus connects to the Marmara Sea and divides Istanbul into the European and Asian sides.  There are lots of ferries that go back and forth.  That channel going up on the left is called the Golden Horn and ends not far above the edge of the map.  

I’ve got you to the Marmara Sea, now let’s proceed from the Marmara Sea to the Dardanelles.

You can see on the map above how narrow the Strait gets. Several websites (here’s just one) say that at the narrowest point, the Dardanelles is 1400 meters wide (about 3/4 of a mile.  We took a ferry at that point to Çanakkale where we spent the night.  

Getting close to the WHY question.  

1.  Britain and France were allied with Russia in WW I.  This was 1915.  The Russian Revolution was two years off.  Britain and France wanted to get supplies to their ally Russia. Central Europe was allied with Germany, so this was the only warm water port for Russia.  

2.  Australians and New Zealanders (ANZAC = Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) were a large part of force used to try to get control of the Dardenelles in Gallipoli.  8,709 Australians died and 19,441 were wounded.  The Kiwi numbers were 2,721 and 4,752.  The British numbers were much higher (34,072 and 78,520)  and the Turk casualties were significantly higher (56,643 and 97,007).  (From Wikipedia.)

One of the Kiwi families on the tour brought along a New Zealand flag and held it up at an ANZAC memorial.

So Gallipoli was all about opening the route to and from Russia’s Black Sea ports. 

You might have noticed I started out talking about Turkey and then switched to the Ottoman Empire.  The Empire was on its last legs - which was why the British thought they could overpower the military.  But looking back at other accounts, they use Turk and Ottoman, so I’ll leave it mixed.  

After WWI what was left of the Ottoman Empire was partitioned among the Western Allies .  However Ataturk defeated their forces and abolished the Ottoman Empire in 1922 and in 1923 declared the secular nation of Turkey.  That is grossly simplified.  You can read more about Ataturk here, and about the partition of the Ottoman Empire here.  And about the WWI Gallipoli campaign here.   Just writing this post reminded me how much I don’t know.  Fights over the Dardanelles goes way back.  

Those heroes that shed their blood 

and lost their lives . . .

You are now living in the soil of a friendly country

Therefore rest in peace

There is no difference between the Johnnies

And the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side

Here in this country of ours. . .

You the mothers ,

Who sent their sons from far away countries

Wipe away your tears

Your sons are now living in our bosom

And are at peace.

After having lost their lives on this land,

They have become our sons as well

-Ataturk, 1934

By a cemetery for Turkish soldiers is a large statue of Ataturk with a group of Turkish students posing for a picture.  Ataturk was the commanding officer defending Gallipoli from the British and French and ANZAC troops.  There were also Indians.  

And this spot - the remains of the trenches of the ANZAC/British troops so near to the trenches of the Turkish troops - brought the reality of all this much closer.  The trees weren’t there back then.  It was hot, there were lots of bugs.  

That’s it.  A post like this takes me way too much time.  There are so many other stories and pictures that I’m afraid most of which you’ll never see here.  

We only have a few days left.  Can’t spend them at the keyboard.  

Cappadocia

 The Cappadocia region is shown on the map in the previous post.  

 We arrived in Göreme by bus after dark and walked up to our hotel which was less than a kilometer.  The town is old and buildings are mostly built with rocks. But it was uphill on a narrow road paved with stones.  The picture isn’t great, but it gives you an idea of neighborhood.  We’d find out that most of this hill was ‘cave hotels’ built in old houses and even in the strange rock formations that the area is famous for.  

I used the word ‘old’ just now.  Let’s clarify that.

‘Göreme is a unique town located in the Cappadocia region of Turkey. It is known for its fairy chimneys, rock-cut churches, and cave dwellings. The town’s history goes back to ancient times when the Hittites were the first to inhabit the area. Later, Göreme became an important center of Christianity, and many churches were carved out of the soft volcanic tuff rock. In the 4th century, Göreme became a monastic settlement for hermits who lived in the caves and practiced asceticism.”

What does “ancient times” mean? 

The Hittite Empire was an ancient civilization in Anatolia from the late 17th century BC to the end of the 12th century BC. The Hittites provided significant examples of stone masonry. Stone reliefs are commonly found on monumental structures, such as city walls and gates. If you read that paragraph and pulled 4th century out to determine ‘old’, that’s perfectly reasonable.  But go back to “ancient times when the Hittites were the first . . .” (From a Koç University site)

Our hunger got us back down that street to a looking for a place to eat.  The photo isn’t too clear, but under ZUKRA it says “Pasta & Bliss.”

In Turkish, pasta means cake.  But it was in English and it sure looks like pasta on the plate.  I asked J, “Does it mean pasta in English or Turkish?  Looks like English.”  And it was a pasta place, but I was hoping to have lentil soup, which is delicious in Turkey.  I asked the young lady if they had soup.  She said no, but to wait a second.  

She came back and said her mother would make me soup.  So we had dinner there.  The whole family worked there - mom, dad, and the two adult kids.  And no, it wasn’t lentil soup, but it was a delicious tomato based pasta soup.  

The next morning at 5:55am I was supposed to be ready for a balloon ride.  Cappadocia is known for balloons.  I’d decided that everyone should probably ride a balloon at least once and that Cappadocia was one of the best places to do that.  J didn’t agree with the first

They said there were 160 balloons aloft.  It was magical. I bonded with a French Canadian couple as we lifted up in morning twilight.  

It was chilly - about 35˚F (1.6˚C).  Colder than it was that day in Anchorage.  I had several layers on, and fortunately I was relatively close to the propane burner.

Soon we were up and drifting over the many rock formations that Cappadocia is famous for.

The ride was just under an hour and I got back in time for the hotel’s buffet breakfast that comes with the room.  Maybe I’ll do a post on the breakfasts.

Then we were picked up for the ‘Red Tour”.  The next day we did the “Green Tour”.  Cappadocia’s tourist industry is highly organized.  One tour goes to the north, the other to the south.  Big white VW busses (not vans, but busses that hold 20 people or so) come up the narrow streets picking up their passengers from their hotels.  Where we were the street was very narrow and one way, and if a passenger wasn’t out waiting and the guide had to go looking for them, it would lead to seven or more vehicles blocked.

I’m running out of steam here, so I’m going to focus just on the rock formations parts of the tours and combine the two.  I wanted the people in this picture so you’d get a sense of the size of these formations.  People, over the millennia, have carved out spaces inside the formations and lived in them, had churches in them.  

“Geologically, Cappadocia is an ancient region that has been shaped by millions of years of geological activity, including volcanic eruptions, tectonic movements, and erosion. The landscape is characterized by soft, easily erodible volcanic tuff, which has been sculpted into a variety of shapes by the forces of wind and water.

Over the centuries, humans have also played a role in shaping the landscape of Cappadocia. The region has a rich history of human settlement, dating back to the Hittites in the 2nd millennium BCE, and later occupied by the Persians, Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines. The people of Cappadocia have also left their mark on the landscape, carving homes, churches, and other structures into the soft volcanic rock.” (From Geology Science)

 

One last very memorable visit on the tour was the Nevşehir Kaymaklı Underground City.  This is a city build underground - eight stories underground.  I couldn’t figure out how to take good pictures - I had to keep up with the folks in our tour.  But you can go to the link to learn more.  The public is only allowed to go down four levels.

Besides narrow passageways with low ceilings, there are bigger spaces for sleeping, kitchen areas, and ‘living rooms.’  People lived in these underground cities when they were in danger from enemy armies.  They were down there up to several weeks at a time.  For those wondering, they also had a ventilation system, which was pointed out, but not explained.  

I’d note the first day tour included people from Germany, Italy, Japan, London (originally from Hong Kong), Palestine, and Turkey.  We were the only Alaskans, and the only people from the US.  As we stopped at different places we got to talk to all the folks.  The next day it was just us and three women from Brazil who we got to know fairly well.  The guides were excellent.  

We’re back in Istanbul, exploring this amazing city.  I’m looking at Istanbul itself as a museum.  We’re learning how to use all the public transportation - which includes busses, trams (on tracks), ferries, a subway, and a furnicular.  I may have missed something.  We’ve figured out how to use and refill our Istanbul Card - which you tap to use the various forms of transportation.  And we’re eating well.  

I’m going to post this now and I’ll proof it again tomorrow and make any necessary edits.  

Some Turkeyı Pics

Keeping up here has been difficult.  We’re just too busy, but let me just give you some selected pictures and comments.  

We met with a travel agent our trusted hotel guy recommended.  He put us on a whirlwind tour of the places we wanted to go.  Konya and Cappadocia.  Fortunately I’d done a bit of research and knew we could get a fast train to Konya and then a bus the rest of the way.  On the map below, Konya is to the lower left of the red circle showing the Cappadocia region.  We stayed in Göreme, which is northeast of Kayseri.  Istanbul is in the upper left between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara.

These men whirled slowly, like they were connecting with the universe.  See more on Sufi dervishes here.

Konya proved a true highlight.  I’d seen that Çatalhöyük was closed on Mondays, so we left Saturday.  Our travel agent arranged for a guide with knowledge of Çatalhöyük who picked us up at the train station.  WhatsApp proves to be very helpful communicating.  Çatalhöyük is a world heritage site.

Our guide turned out to be a Sufi teacher who teaches college level - not only was he knowledgeable, but he practiced his Sufi - with lots of care for us.  I’d also read that there were whirling dervish (performance isn’t the right word,). There’s a huge modern building where they whirl on Saturday evenings from 7-8 or so.  Our guide showed us where it was before dropping us off at the hotel.  We had a delicious local meal
next door to the hotel and then walked to the Mevlana Center.  (Mevlana, as I understand it, is the Turkish name for Rumi, the founder of Sufism.)

The next morning we walked a bit after breakfast and I was duly impressed by this blue motorcycle.

We were scheduled to go to the Mevlana Museum, which was across the street from the hotel.  We didn’t realize that - we thought it was a mosque.  And it had been a mosque, but is now a museum for Mehvlana (Rumi).  But the name ‘museum’ doesn’t do it justice.  It had been a like a monastery for men studying to become Sufi dervishes (I need to be careful here with my terminology.  My understanding is they would become monks, though again I’m not sure that’s the right word.)  So in addition to the old mosque, attached to it are a series of cells for the acolytes. 

The picture below shows Mevlana’s tomb inside the old mosque.  Rather than requiring people to remove their shoes, they provided paper shoe covers to wear.  

There is a mosque right next to the museum.  There’s a pic below showing the mosque (to the right) and the museum from the night before when we walked back from the dervishes. 

The picture above is Çatalhöyük. This is a site that dates back to the Neolithic period.  (Yes, I had to look it up to better understand what we were looking at).  But 9000 years ago, people built this community of 3500 - 8000 people.  The living spaces are all connected to each other.  There were no streets.  People had ladders inside to the roof, and the roofs were the ‘streets’ of this place.  There’s a museum which explains a lot, then there are some reconstructed dwellings that you can go into to see how people lived.  Finally, there is the actual archeological site.

I’m going to let people who are interested, go to the link to find out more.  The picture above is a tiny part of the complex under a large cover that visitors are allowed to see.  There’s another section open to the public, but it wasn’t open when we were there.  

I’m still trying to grasp people who were only just beginning to transition from hunter/gatherer to growing some of their own food, and developing this complex housing system.  

The picture below shows the mosque, to the right, and the Mevlana Museum.  The green tiled turret in the museum area is from the original building, which if I got it right, was build in the 1200s. The rest was built later. Later = 1500s.  

Think about it.  The turquoise green turret in the back of the museum complex was built over 200 years before Columbus’ reached what became ‘the new world.,’. Humans back then were just as clever and just as emotional as we are today.  Not really much difference from what I can tell.

 

There is a lot referenced in this post that people know little or nothing about, so I won’t feel bad if I don’t post again right away and give you time to check out the links.  

New Inspiration From A Long Time Hero

Just in the opening intro to Robert Caro’s Working, I was inspired to take on a project I’d put off for a couple of years now.  Caro reads his audio book and talks about how when writing the Power Broker he realized he needed to document the human cost of all the parkways and bridges and slum clearance Robert Moses built.  I have such a project to pursue in Anchorage.

I guess I’m getting ahead of myself.  My bookclub is reading Working this month, and while the time zones don’t work out for me to zoom in, Caro has been a hero of mine for just about 50 years.  Caro’s first big book - The Power Broker - is about Robert Moses who created  a mesh of overlapping ‘authorities’ - park authorities, transportation authorities, port authorities - that gave him a working income that he controlled and the power to create public works projects that transformed the landscape of New York City.  I should be clear - Caro never found any indication that Moses was in this business to make money, but rather to fulfill his visions of how to create infrastructure that would improve life for New Yorkers.  They money he made through tolls and bonds went to build his vision.  

Caro tells us in the intro that he wanted to understand how Caro had wielded so much power for close to 50 years, power over mayors, governors, and other elected  officials, though he had never been elected to any office.  He talks about advice he  (Caro) got early on about doing research on documents - read every page.  

Caro worked full time on The Power Broker for over five years.  It came out in Fall of 1974 about when I’d finished my Masters in Public Administration and was working on my doctorate.  And I would have read it right after it came out - maybe the Spring of 1975.  And as I started teaching as a doctoral student, The Power Broker, at least parts of it (it’s over 1100 pages) were part of the readings in my intro class until I retired.  One of the questions I had about the book - as did many others - was how did Caro find out all the stuff he had on Moses.  This book answers that question 

I’ve mentioned “Thick Description” several times lately, and as I listened to Caro talking about the need to get the stories of the people Moses displaced with his projects, I realized this was an example of thick description as well.  (I hadn’t thought about that before since I’d been using Caro’s book long before I’d heard about thick description.). https://whatdoino-steve.blogspot.com/2015/07/who-am-i-who-are-you.

”. . . we can return to dreams of our long gone riches, our legendary past”

 I’m reading Istanbul by Nobel Prize winning Turkish author Orhan Pamuk.  It’s an autobiographical look at the author, Istanbul, and Turkey. (I’m speculating here, because I’m not that far into it.  He’s talking about his childhood when the neighborhood was filled with the dilapidated old palaces of the pashas of the Fallen Ottoman Empire,  I’m not sure what kids learn about in world history these days, but the magnificence of the Ottoman Empire was left out of the history classes I took.  

This is what people in the US might feel in 50 years or more if our current political trajectory continues and the many riches of the US are gutted, and the rest of the world leaves us in the dust.  

“When I watch the black and white crowds rushing through the darkening streets of a winter’s evening, I feel a deep sense of fellowship, almost as if the night has cloaked our lives, our streets, our every belonging in a blanket of darkness, as if once we’re safe in our houses, our bedrooms, our beds, we can return to dreams of our long gone riches, our legendary past.  And likewise, as I watch dark descend like a poem in the pale light of the streetlamps to engulf these old neighborhoods, it comforts me to know that for the night at least we are safe; the shameful poverty of our city is cloaked from Western eyes.”  (p. 35)

“To stand before the magnificent iron gates of a grand yali bereft of its paint, to notice the sturdiness of another yali’s moss-covered walls, to admire the shutters and fine woodwork of a third even more sumptuous yali and to contemplate the judas trees on the hills rising high above it, to pass gardens heavily shaded by evergreens and centuries-old plane trees - even for a child, it was to know that a great civilization had stood here, and, from what they told me, people very much like us had once upon a time led a life extravagantly different from our own - leaving us who followed them feeling the poorer, weaker, and more provincial.” (pp 53-53)

I’m sitting at SeaTac waiting to board our flight to Frankfurt, so that’s it for now.  

Why Truth Is So Illusive? Braun- Blanquet Scale

[I found this draft post from July 2012.  It appears never to have been posted.  But it's interesting to see how what I wrote 12 years ago is still relevant today.  Probably more so. And posting it today - August 3 - is fitting as you will see if you read it.]

Getting the facts right - whether it's in an old sexual abuse case or an attempt to see how ground vegetation has changed over a period of time - is the first step.  Once the facts are established, then models - whether scientific theories, religious beliefs, or the unarticulated models of how the world works we carry in our heads - are applied.

For example, did your son lie to his teacher about his homework?  If the answer is yes, then you must go through various models you have about topics such as lying, education, changing the behavior of young boys and apply them to this situation to get the desired result.  It's not as easy as you might initially think.  You may have a clear value that lying is never good.  Or you may think there are times it is ok.  Do you think his teacher is wonderful and working hard to teach your son to be a great human being with all the necessary skills?  Or is he part of a corrupt educational system that expects all students in the class to be at exactly the same level at all times and finds fault with your son because he's brighter than most and bored in class, or slower than most and having trouble keeping up? Or do you think he is picking on your son because he's a different race from the teacher?  And finally, will you talk this over with your son?  Restrict his internet access for a week?  Or whup him with a belt to help him learn this lesson?  Or maybe you'll go to the school and defend your son and attack the teacher. 

Things get much more complicated when we deal with the collective problems of a community.  If king salmon aren't returning to their rivers in the numbers expected, how should state fish and game authorities deal with this?  First, is their method of counting salmon working right?  Perhaps the salmon are getting through without being counted?  Then, do you restrict subsistence fishers?  Which models do you use to explain the shortage?  Is it climate change which is affecting the water temperatures?  Is it overfishing by commercial ocean fishing vessels?  Is it that these salmon are being caught as by-catch by bottom trawlers?  And when you think you know, what model do you use to decide whether subsistence fishers are allowed to catch any?

All this is introduction to Josias Braun-Blanquet who in 1927 devised the Braun-Blanquet scale.  The Botany Dictionary tells us about the Braun-Blanquet scale.

A method of describing an area of vegetation . . . It is used to survey large areas very rapidly. Two scales are used. One consists of a plus sign and a series of numbers from 1 to 5 denoting both the numbers of species and the proportion of the area covered by that species, ranging from + (sparse and covering a small area) to 5 (covering more than 75% of the area). The second scale indicates how the species are grouped and ranges from Soc. 1 (growing singly) to Soc. 5 (growing in pure populations). The information is obtained by laying down adjacent quadrats of increasing size. One of a number of variations of Braun-Blanquet's method is the Domin scale, which is more accurate as there are more subdivisions of the original scale. The Braun-Blanquet scale also included a five-point scale to express the degree of presence of a plant. For example, 5 = constantly present in 80-100% of the areas; 1 = rare in 1-20% of the areas.

So, essentially, this is a measuring device to calculate the percentage of an area that is covered by different plant species.  Measuring is just the first step.  Once you have the measures, then you can apply your models. (OK, I know some of you will point out that you can't measure anything unless you have models that tell you what to measure.  True enough.  But once you have the measures - in this case of percentage of species of vegetation in a certain location - you have to interpret what that means using a model or several.)

But one problem is that the measurements might not be accurate or might not be used right. 

A 1978 Study in  Environmental Management found the Braun-Blanquet scale to be adequate and more efficient than another method of measuring species in an area.  Here's the abstract:

To document environmental impact predictions for land development, as required by United States government regulatory agencies, vegetation studies are conducted using a variety of methods. Density measurement (stem counts) is one method that is frequently used. However, density measurement of shrub and herbaceous vegetation is time-consuming and costly. As an alternative, the Braun-Blanquet cover-abundance scale was used to analyze vegetation in several ecological studies. Results from one of these studies show that the Braun-Blanquet method requires only one third to one fifth the field time required for the density method. Furthermore, cover-abundance ratings are better suited than density values to elucidate graphically species-environment relationships. For extensive surveys this method provides sufficiently accurate baseline data to allow environmental impact assessment as required by regulatory agencies.

 So, fifty years after Braun-Blanquet's scale went public, it was still being used.  And apparently it is still in use today.  And people are writing about some of the limitations of the model.

In Monitoring Nature Conservation in Cultural Habitats:: A Practical Guide and Case Studies, (2007) by Clive Hurford and Michael Schneider, the Braun-Blanquet scale is compared to the Domin scale and both are found to have two sources of error.  First, is the observer bias that could affect the initial estimate of the percentage of species coverage that is then used to identify the appropriate cover class.  The second problem arises when the vegetation is at or near a vegetation boundary.  This is, apparently, more of a problem in the Domin scale. (p. 82)

And a February 2009 (online) article in Journal of Vegetation Science warns that the Braun-Blanquet abudance-dominance scale cannot be used with conventional multivariate analysis techniques because the Braun-Blanquet scores use ordinal numbers. 

I bring this up for a couple of reasons.  First, today, August 3, is Braun-Blanquet's birthday.  He was born in Switzerland in 1884 and died in France at 96 in 1980.  Second, and probably of more general importance, has to do with science and truth.

We are at a time when science is under severe attack by a combined force of right wing politicians and fundamentalist religious groups.   They pounce on what they call scientific errors and publicize them to 'prove' science isn't trustworthy.  The emails about global warming data is a good example. 

Now, there are scientists who for various reasons (fame, money, revenge, you know the usual human failings that lead to compromises) do cheat.  But the beauty of science is that one's work must be made public and when others try to duplicate your work and can't, then your work becomes suspect. 

But the pursuit of truth is and will always be imperfect.  Data collection and interpretation will always be dependent on the ability to observe and measure and interpret.  And the Braun-Blanquet scale shows, in a small way, that even a technique that's been around over 70 years, is not perfect.  But in science no one holds all the cards, no one proclaims truth for everyone else to accept. 

Scientific truth is always being tested and challenged.  That's its strength, but absolutists see it as a weakness. 

DePaul University Professor of Environmental Science and co-director of DePaul University's Institute for Nature and Culture, has an interesting story about a project  to rid the oak woodlands of Rhododendron ponticum, an invasive shrub that was encroaching in the understory of this habitat in Killarney National Park in Ireland.  It talks about the use of the Braun-Blanquet scale.  It's posted at his blog Ten Things Wrong with Environmental Thinking.

Civil Service - Who Are These People ET Are Firing? - Part I

Intro:  Civil Service and Merit System are terms most Americans have heard, but I'd guess that few could tell you, very accurately, what they mean or anything about their history or why they are important bedrocks of American democracy.  

Part I - is a repeat of a post I put up last August 31, 2025.  Part II will be another old post.  It gets into more detail and is based on testimony I gave in a discrimination case years ago.  Although there will be repetition, I'm sure that will be helpful for readers to grasp the concepts. 

This topic is critical to understanding why what is happening right now is both illegal and will lead to serious damage to the U.S. government's ability to efficiently and effectively serve the people of the United States.  

*ET - my conflation of Elon and Trump, though someone else thought it meant Evil Tyrant.  Evil Twins might also work.  Maybe Elon and Trump can journey to Mars and it can then have its original meaning of Extra Terrestrial.  

From the August 31, 2024 post:

From the August 31, 2024 LA Times: [Note the digital and facsimile editions have different titles.]

 

As someone who taught public administration at the graduate level, I'm well aware of the lack of knowledge of what 'the civil service' is.  So let me give you some background.  

Before the civil service was created in local, state, and federal governments, we had what is often called "the spoils system."

Briefly, 'to the victor, go the spoils.'  Winning candidates gave jobs to the campaign supporters.  This was the payoff for working on a campaign.  Qualifications were not nearly as important as loyalty.  This included positions as low as garbage collector and as high as the head of the budget.  

Aside from the incompetence and corruption this led to, it also meant that whenever someone from a different party won, the whole government was thrown out and new people were put in place.  And had to learn from scratch, generally without any help from the fired former workers.

Political machines, like Tammany Hall in New York, would recruit new immigrants coming off the ships to work on their campaigns with the promise of a job if they won.  [US citizenship was not required to vote back then.  That changed later.  The Constitution gave the states the power to run elections and decide qualifications to vote.  The Constitution didn't ban women from voting, the states did.]

At the national level, this came to a head when Andrew Jackson was elected president and invited 'the riffraff' that elected him to the White House in 1830.  But it wasn't until a disgruntled office seeker assassinated President Garfield in 1881 because he didn't get the position he sought, that Congress got serious. 

In 1883 they passed the Pendleton Act that set up a civil service system based on merit.  

Merit, as in the 'merit system' means that positions are filled based on merit, or on one's qualifications for the job, not on who you know.  

Local governments in New York and Boston didn't move to merit systems until the early 20th Century.  

Those merit systems weren't perfect.  The inherent biases of the day meant that women and Blacks weren't qualified except for what Trump would call 'women's jobs' and 'Black jobs.'  

And even today, the top level jobs in most governments are still filled with people who are loyal to the head of the government - whether that's a mayor, governor, or president.   Not only does that include cabinet officials but a top layer of 'exempt' positions.  Exempt meaning they are not covered by the merit system.  They can be hired and fired at will.  Usually the newly elected official picks people based on their loyalty to the policy as well as their professional qualifications to do the job.  But clearly that second part doesn't always happen.  The only check on this, is a required vote of approval by a legislative body - the US or state Senate, a City Council.  But if the newly elected executive  has a majority in the legislative branch too, that approval is often pro forma.

People hired through a merit system process also have job protections.  They cannot be fired except for cause - for violating the law, the policies or procedures, for gross incompetence etc.  Whereas the appointed (exempt) positions don't have such protections.  

After his 2016 election, Trump was frequently frustrated by career civil servants, who didn't jump to follow his often illegal instructions. The media have dubbed these people (who included many appointed positions as well) 'the guardrails' that kept Trump somewhat in line. He wanted the Justice Department to punish people who opposed him.  He did battle with the civil servants in various regulatory agencies who followed the law rather than Trump's illegal bidding.  

So, when we hear that Trump wants to destroy the civil service, as stated in the LA Times headline above, this is what we're talking about.  

He doesn't want a system that hires qualified people who cannot be fired except for cause.  (Again, for cause, means they have to do something that violates the laws, the rules, or is grossly incompetent or corrupt.)  He wants government workers that do his bidding without any resistance, without them telling him 'it's against the law.'

He wants to fire all those people who were hired based on merit (their qualifications to perform the job).  These include Democrats, Republicans, and non-partisan employees.  He wants to replace them with people whose main qualification is undying loyalty to Trump.  

That's pretty much all I want to say.

One of the very best books on this subject is Robert Caro's The Power Broker.  It's a biography of Robert Moses who played a major role in getting a merit system in place in New York.  It's a massive [1168 pages] book.  But it is also riveting as it goes into detail on how the young, idealist Moses evolved into the powerful and corrupt power broker of New York. And in doing so tells the story of the civil service. Not only did the book win the Pulitzer Prize, it was also selected on most lists of the 100 best non-fiction books of the 20th Century. I challenge you to read the first hundred pages and not want to keep turning the pages.

Introduction to Robert Caro's The Power Broker 

Part II is here.

Discovering Islands Around The World

I found the following passage intriguing.  And since it is bad form to copy whole passages of other
books without adding value or a new context, I should say a little bit more.  

In the film about diving in unexplored underwater caves, Diving Into The Darkness, that was featured at the Anchorage International Film Festival last December,  an astronaut says cave divers' explorations were much more dangerous than that of the astronauts because they were totally on their own, out of contact with the rest of the world.  If they had a problem, they had to overcome it on their own.

Think about how much more that applied to the sailors of the past - especially those who went on long voyages of exploration.   

 "It took Western civilization* about 1500 years to discover all the oceanic islands, and it appears that Captain Cook and his lieutenants were almost the only people in all that time who took their surveying job very seriously.  

The probability that an island will be found by sailors depends on its size, its distance from a home port, the number of voyages from  port, the freedom of action and spirit of adventure of captains, the likelihood of ships' being driven long distances by storms, and so on.  All in all, it is not surprising that the largest oceanic volcano, Iceland, was the first to be discovered, in the fourth century A.D., by the Norsemen, who lived not far to the east.  They colonized the island by the ninth century and roamed the northern seas - which contain few oceanic islands.

The next phase of discovery was in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, when Portuguese, Spanish, and other European explorers began to seek a sea route to the spice and silk of the East.  Just as Columbus accidentally found the vast area of the Americas, so others sighted tiny oceanic islands or ran aground on them.  In 1420 the Portuguese Zarco discovered the Madeira islands, for the last time, when storms drove him west from his exploration of the coast of Africa.  A Genoese map of 1351 shows that contact had been made before - the islands are only 670 km west of Africa and the Straits of Gibraltar.  The Azores, even further west, were already known to the Carthaginians, who left coins, and Arabian geographers.  They were discovered for the last time in 1432, when Van den Berg was driven on the islands by a storm.  Although the Azores are in three widely separated groups, all nine islands were found and some even colonized by the Portuguese within twenty-five years. . .

As the Europeans sailed farther south, further discoveries were made apparently for the first as well as the last time by man.  These included the cluster of the Cape Verdes in 1456;  the tiny, isolated, mid ocean islands of Ascension, in 1501, and St. Helena, in 1502.  Clearly, the explorers were tracking far into the Atlantic to follow the latitudinally zoned winds.  The Portuguese reached oceanic islands in the Indian Ocean soon after.  Mauritius in 1505, and Reunion in 1513.  All of the islands discovered to this time had several features in common.  They were high volcanoes, active or dead, uninhabited, and wholly lacking gold, diamonds, or anything else offering quick profit.  Some were ironbound by great cliffs  but even these had a few protected anchorages and fresh water, so the islands had some use.  Moreover, being high, they were visible from great distances and thus hardly hazardous to navigation.  

So when Magellan entered the Pacific, in 1520, he had some knowledge of oceanic islands.  We may pause to consider what else he knew and his situation.  He knew about the trade winds.  After beating his way through the straits that bear his name it could hardly have escaped his attention that he was in the wrong latitude to sail west.  Not to mention that the known riches of the East were in the Northern Hemisphere.  His ship was marginal for the voyage and his supplies were already low.  Considering all these factors, his only logical course was to sail northwestward until he reached the tropics and the gentle, persistent easterlies of the trade winds.  This he did.  

The state of the science of navigation in Magellan's time enabled him to determine latitude at sea, but not longitude.  Indeed, in those days before surveying by triangulation, no one knew longitude very well on land , either.  The course being steered and speed made through the water could be measured, but wind and sea drift were always uncertain, and often hopelessly so after a series of storms.  As a consequence, the longitudinal positions of ships not infrequentlywere in error by hundreds of kilometers and occasionally by more than two thousand kilometers.  Not until Captain Cook's time, in the late eighteenth century, were nautical chronometers accurate enough to permit determinations of longitude.  Even two centuries after Cook, positioning errors of 15 km to 30 km were common in celestial navigation.  Not until the invention of electronics and artificial satellite navigation in the 1960s and 1970s did a ship at last know where it was most of the time.  Then, naturally almost everything that had been discovered had to be relocated."

From H. W. Menard, Islands, Scientific American Library, 1986, (pp. 6-9)

*Reading The Adventures of Amina Al Sirafi  recently also piqued my interest in this passage.  And is also a reminder that there were non-European discoverers as well who are documented in Western libraries as well as the European discoverers.  The book does mention this.  It also mentions the plant and animal 'discoverers' that made their way to distant islands.  

But I also wonder how much better we know where we are today, with the constant flood of social media misinformation?  

I don't just mean if we're in the Gulf of Mexico or the Gulf of Power, but whether we're in a democracy, a failing state, an insane asylum, or a fascist dictatorship, or all of them at once.  

You can probably get Islands at your public library.  Loussac library in Anchorage doesn't have it, but they can get it from several University of Alaska libraries.    [Not sure how well that library search link will hold up, but we can try.]

The Palisades Fire - Personal Connections And More General Thoughts

We're back in Anchorage.  As we went to the airport in the late afternoon Friday, there seemed to be a lot less smoke blowing from the Palisades fire toward the ocean.   By the time we took off, it was dark out and while we sat on the wrong side of the plane, we could still see the flames through the window on the other side as we banked to the north.  It was the first time we saw actual flames.  

I grew up in LA and my mom lived in our house for 65 years.  So I know the area fairly well.  Especially the west side where the Palisades fire is.  I've seen huge changes over time and I have some thoughts, having been in LA when the fire started.  

We discovered KCAL on the radio while we were driving - which had the most up-to-the-minute and detailed coverage of the fires.  You can watch the KCAL coverage here.  I listened again this morning from here in Anchorage.  I know the places they're talking about, but even if you don't it's pretty addicting and I don't recommend watching more than 15 minutes at a time.  

History - Marquez, Will Rogers State Park, UCLA, Santa Monica Pier

Here's a recent map from the Los Angeles County Emergency site.  These maps keep being updated.  I've done a screenshot of an area of importance to me.  The orange is mandatory evacuation areas.  The yellow is a warning area - be ready to evacuate.  I'd note I was still getting alerts on my phone as we were headed to the airport.  

My mom's house is down at the bottom, just below the Santa Monica Airport which is the border between SM and Los Angeles.  It's a long way off from the mandatory evacuation area.  It probably doesn't look that far, but the fire is mostly in mountainous areas - large lots, hillsides covered with (now) dry brush.  The land between mandatory evacuation and be ready to evacuate areas and my mom's house is much more urban.  Directly above my mom's house is the concrete and asphalt runway of the Santa Monica Airport.  

I went to school at UCLA.  As you can see, the Evacuation Warning area touches the northwest corner of the campus.

My last two years at UCLA, I was a noon duty aide and afterschool playground director at Marquez Elementary School.  It's one of two schools that burned down Thursday.  Every day, about 11:30am I took off from UCLA and rode along Sunset to Marquez Elementary School.  Sometimes I napped in the nurse's office between lunch and after school duty.  Other times I rode the last mile or so of Sunset to the beach where I played volley ball and body surfed.  

One of my favorite places in LA was Will Rogers State Park.  This was the great Cherokee cowboy/actor/humorist's estate where he could escape Hollywood.  It had his house and other buildings including a large stable for horses and a polo field.  And the surrounding area had beautiful hiking trails.  It was pretty much the only thing around when I first went there.  I remember seeing quail there.  This picture is from a 2011 blog post.  More pictures of the area around the Will Rogers estate are in a 2021 post.  It appears to have all been destroyed.  Will Rogers died in a plane crash with Wiley Post, in 1935 outside of what was then called Port Barrow, Alaska.  

If you don't know much about Rogers, I urge you to read his Wikipedia entry.  And/or watch this Youtube talk from 1931 much of which applies today.  

In more recent years, when I come down to LA, I bike down to Venice Beach and then north along the coast up to the where Pacific Palisades meets the ocean.  In the previous post, I put up a picture from a recent ride, looking up at a couple of houses on the bluff above the ocean there.  

The Santa Monica Pier, which is just about where the SA of Santa Monica are on the map, has also been a favorite spot in the LA area.  We took the grandkids to the pier on New Year's Eve before going to see Cirque Du Soleil which was in a tent in the pier parking lot.  And the pier is still there and likely not in danger, despite earlier reports that it was, and what almost certainly was a fake photo of the pier with the sky full of flames behind it. Though the Cirque Du Soleil tents are gone.  

On Wednesday, the second day of the fire, I biked (with a good mask on) to the pier and a little beyond it.  Here's a video I took from the pier.  Downtown Santa Monica is where the  tall buildings are to the right.  

Today's map has the evacuation line right up to the ocean for a good part of it.  But at downtown Santa Monica, the air was relatively clear and was still reasonably so a couple of miles north of the pier.  I rode beyond the pier until I could see that up ahead the smoke was down on the highway and bike trail.  I didn't need to get that close to thick smoke.  But you can see, in the picture below, a runner, without a mask, heading for it.  I'd note that as a Jr. High and High School student, LA air frequently looked like that and on the worst days, we'd get a pain in our chest when we breathed deep.  

I'd also mention that Pacific Palisades was the home of "Weimar on the Pacific."  

"In the 1930s and 40s, Los Angeles became an unlikely cultural sanctuary for a distinguished group of German artists and intellectuals—including Thomas Mann, Theodore W. Adorno, Bertolt Brecht, Fritz Lang, and Arnold Schoenberg—who had fled Nazi Germany. During their years in exile, they would produce a substantial body of major works to address the crisis of modernism that resulted from the rise of National Socialism."

If you don't know these names (and I acknowledge that most people probably don't, despite their being important cultural figures), and others mentioned in the linked book announcement, I'd urge you to google them.  They're pretty remarkable people.  My mother had connections to Schoenberg family through her work, and through the owner of the dress shop who was featured in the film Woman In Gold. who hired Schoenberg's grandson to represent her in her fight against the Austrian government to recover pictures stolen from her family by the Nazis.  My mom shopped at her store and sent me clippings from the newspaper of the lawsuit while it was happening.  

Another member of the group was Leon Feuchtwanger.  When I was a high school or college student, my father took me to visit an older German woman in West Los Angeles or possibly Santa Monica.  Close to the yellow evacuation warning area today.  I could be wrong, but I believe this was Leon Feuchtwanger's widow, Marta.  (My father also fled Nazi Germany in the 1930s.)

The End, But Not The End

I wanted this to be one integrated post, tying a number of different ideas together.  But while I think some of my readers could read on beyond this, I've got several more topics and there is already a lot in the links to explore.  So I'll save the others for tomorrow and maybe the next day.  

Coming:

1.  Development in the hills -  Why have people built way up in this area known for fires?

2.  Pacific Palisades and Malibu, and now Brentwood ( especially Mandeville Canyon), Encino on the valley side are some of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Los Angeles, probably the US.  Would we be paying such close attention if this were a poorer neighborhood?  Would a poorer neighborhood be getting all the resources coming in to help like this?

3.  The idea of ownership and loss - humans are short term inhabitants on earth.  We don't 'own' the earth, or anything else really.  We are the temporary guardians until the 'properties' are lost, sold,, destroyed, stolen, or by the death of the people who believe they own them.  

4.  Phone Alerts  - I kept getting loud alerts on my phone with warnings to evacuate immediately

5.  How television news (in particular) distort reality by showing the most sensational snippets and ignoring the fact that most people are going on with their lives normally.

6. Warning to Anchorage hillside residents, and people everywhere who live in wooded hillsides. Or any area that is threatened by nature's reaction to Climate Change.