Trying To Get Our Bearings In Istanbul

[TECH NOTE:  This post has been delayed because I’m using a new iPad 16 for our trip and the simple way to shrink photo file size on my MacBook doesn’t exist (or at least I couldn’t find it here.)  I’ve looked at a bunch of videos on how to do it plus more written instructions and was even more confused.  Finally I found this one:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAz60h22k6c Which shows a really easy way to do what I’ve needed to do.  Thanks Dan for the video.  Now I can post some pictures of Istanbul (and one from Frankfurt, Germany.]  

[A few minutes later after uploading the first picture.  First Blogger said it couldn’t upload the image.  I did it again.  It uploaded it, but none of the controls (size, right-left-center, etc.) seem to work.  It may be all the pics will be large and centered.  Better than no pics at all.]

Actual post begins here:

After a couple of nights in Frankfurt to catch up on sleep and meet Nik’s sister-in-law and niece, we went on to Istanbul.  (Nik is the Ukrainian who lived in Ketchikan who I tutored in English for about two years over FaceTime.)

                             

Above is the Haupt Bahnhof (main train station) in Frankfurt

By the second full day in Istanbul I was wondering what we were doing here - it was all so overwhelming. 

 [Pic is Istanbul Airport walking and walking and walking to get to passport check and then to baggage.  At least here there were long big open spaces so you can see where you are going.  In Frankfurt you were in smaller spaces turning this way and that way, never quite sure if it was the right way. Not sure how the pic got on the left.]

We were staying in Sultanahmet - the most touristy section of Istanbul from what I can tell. [Because it has the oldest and most spectacular things for tourists to see, like the Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Casıı), the Grand Bazaar, and other notable landmarks.  [Can you tell that I’m stalling here?  

We stayed at the Side Hotel - see the little white circle, middle bottom - in the section called Sultanahmet.  The section on the right is the Asian part of Istanbul

We spent our time just walking around, figuring out where we were, how  to get an Istanbul Card (lets you ride on all the forms of public transportation), getting Turkish Lira from the ATM and trying to figure out how much things are in US dollars (1 Lire is about .024 cents; a dollar is worth 41.58 Turkish Lira.  Quick, they bring you the bill and it’s 1670 Lira, what’s that in dollars?)  It’s been harder than most places for me to be able to ‘feel’ my way around and naturally know which way is North. The hotel map suggests that lots of places are less than a kilometer away. This stalling I’m doing now reflects how I felt, and still feel].   Below is a picture of Turkish Delight.  Below that is a display of teas in a spice shop.

The second day I determined to do something.  Well, of course walking around and looking at things is doing something, but the next day we took the Bosphorus ferry.  The Bosphorus Strait flows from the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea (which eventually connects to the Aegean Sea).  North is the European Side,  South (I think - east of the Sultanahmet section) the Asian side The tour boat went close to the shoreline on both sides.  That helped a lot for getting my bearings and seeing how much more of Istanbul there is.  But from what I can tell, where we are is the real tourist area - lots and lots of places to eat, from food carts to fancy restaurants.  Carpet salesmen lurking like sharks.  Opening line for most seems to be, “Where are you from?”  It’s been in the 70sF during the day (which feels hot in the sun) and into the low 60s in the evening, with a strong breeze.

Most of my Bosphorus pics are on my camera.  I’m not even going to try retrieving those for this post.

We’d been told not to visit the Ayasofia (Hagia Sofia) - the huge mosque about a quarter of a mile from our hotel - not only is it more crowded on Sunday, but we were told there was also a cruise ship adding to the crowd of people who wanted to get in.  So we got our tickets early Monday.  

Above is the exterior of Hagia Sofia and below an interior shot. The link takes

you to the Hagia Sofia museum site and will help you understand the significance of this mosque

The next day we visited the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (the Blue Mosque).  It’s maybe a quarter of a mile away from the Hagia Sofia.  Here’s a link that tells you more, though most of the links are tourist oriented and talk about getting tickets.  You don’t need tickets to enter this mosque.  

Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque) exterior from the roof of our hotel above

And from inside.  Magnificent!

Istanbul folks, according to the guide books and websites, use an Istanbul Card, which functions like similar cards in other cities.  This one may be a bit broader in scope than most - it works on all forms of transportation - busses, trams, trains, subway, funiculars, and ferries.  Even though you can switch the machines to English, it was still a bit daunting to buy our card (more than one person can use the card).  So this day we topped it off to make sure there was enough money in it.  

Machine to get Istanbul Card

And after Sultan Ahmet Mosque we took tram 1.  I wanted to cross over the water into the northern part of Istanbul.  We rode and rode but never crossed the bridge over the Golden Horn.  Eventually we got off and walked around a neighborhood that didn’t seem to have a lot to offer (us anyway). We walked back three stations before we got on the tram to go back.  When I was relating our adventure and lack of water crossing to Emre who works at the hotel, he was confused.  I showed him a picture of the station where we got off.  Eventually he said, “You went in the wrong direction.  You got off in one of the poorest neighborhoods of Istanbul”. 

Riding back on the tram.

I told you I was having trouble getting my bearings.  But getting lost is part of the adventure of traveling. Fortunately this was a test ride.  We didn’t have a specific destination in mind, except to cross the water into the ‘newer’ part of Istanbul.   

I’m done with this post.  Obviously I’ve left out a lot.  But my problems with this iPad and photos has made this one of the most frustrating posts to write that I can remember.  I’m sure there were problematic posts long ago that I don’t remember.  But I’m going to stop here.  

And, by the way, 1670 Lira would be $40.39. (At least at today’s official exchange rate.)

Their Music Survives

A friend sent me a link to an audio program about the music of the Holocaust - music written and performed by concentration camp musicians.  The program is very sad and very inspiring at the same time.  Worth listening to.  

I don't see a way to embed the audio here, so here's a link to the website that has it:

https://www.blogger.com/u/0/blog/post/edit/30897652/6944961309403824554

Well worth a listen when you are doing something you can do while listening.  

The transcript begins:

"Mat Edelson (HOST): To be a Jewish composer or musician under the Third Reich’s reign of terror meant your next note could be your last. At first their works were banned as being degenerate, their contributions to the musical canon erased from public display. Later, as the murderous frenzy exploded in the ghettos and concentration camps, composers and musicians imprisoned there refused to be stilled. On scraps of paper they penciled their inspirations, praying that even if they died, their music would survive. Miraculously, it has. In this documentary, we’ll meet conductors, musicians and others rediscovering this lost generation of music and performing it for new audiences worldwide. They’re using this music to educate, to remember, and to correct an historical injustice. Join us now for Their Music Survives.?

 

Maybe Vietnam Is The Wrong War For Afghanistan Comparisons

 We keep hearing that Biden has ended the US's longest war.  Technically that's true, but also technically, the Korean War isn't over.  There's never been a peace treaty.  And the US has about 28,500 troops still in Korea, some 60 years after the active shooting war is over.  

There are 80,000 US troops stationed in Japan.  

And 35,000 more in Germany.

What's different about Germany, Japan, and Korea from Vietnam and Afghanistan?  First Germany and Japan.  Both were soundly defeated in WWII.  Germany was divided by the Soviet Union, the US, France, and England.  The Soviet Union, which controlled East Germany, was seen as the biggest threat to West Germany.  

Japan was also soundly defeated and ruled by the Allied forces, though effectively headed by General Douglas MacArthur.  A democratic Constitution for Japan was created under MacArthur's leadership.  Japan's two greatest adversaries were neighboring China and the Soviet Union.  Again, the US presence served as protection for the severely battered post-WWII Japan.  

South Korea was threatened by North Korea supported by the Chinese.  The US helped keep the North Koreans and their Chinese allies from taking over South Korea.  

In all three cases, the US was seen as a military protection from outside invasion - China in Korea's case, the Soviet Union and China in Japan's case, and the Soviet Union in West Germany's case.  

In contrast, both in Vietnam and Afghanistan, the US was supporting a government that was more aligned with foreign powers.  Vietnam had recently gotten rid of the French colonial rulers.  The US came in backing the Catholic French colonial Vietnamese against the indigenous Buddhist Vietnamese.  

In Afghanistan, again, the Kabul government was aligned with the US against Afghan groups - Taliban and local tribal leaders.  It's more complicated than that, of course, but basically the Muslim nation was fighting a basically Christian outside force.  

In both Vietnam and Afghanistan, there was outside support for the North Vietnamese and the Taliban, but it was to oust was was seen as an occupying force from the West.  

So in the cases of Vietnam and Afghanistan, the US military was fighting a war, far away from home, in a country they knew little or nothing about.  They didn't speak the language and needed interpreters or locals who spoke English to communicate.  They couldn't tell their friends from their enemies.  Their opponents were fighting for their homeland and to expel the invaders.  

Perhaps this is one of the key lessons we should have learned.  We can support countries that see us as allies against their fight against a feared enemy.  We oughtn't, otherwise, be outsiders picking a side in a civil war, especially in countries we (the average US citizen and the soldiers) know little or nothing about.  

And, of course, we should not assume that what happens us in the future will be exact matches to what happened in the past.  We must be careful to choose our models carefully and to weigh various factors.  

And the world has to figure out how to protect humans from their own ruthless rulers.  It's all very thorny and no one emerges unscathed.