Coho Bar - Cordova

I've got lots of pictures of  Cordova, so I'll just get them up as fast as I can, but not in any particular order.  This is from Sunday.  After a walk at the old Cannery, Joe picked the Coho Bar for lunch because it reminded him of what things used to be like in Nome.  This is NOT a place J and I would have otherwise walked into on our own, so it was good we were with Joe and Martha.

Here it is from outside.

And below, what it looks like inside.

click to enlarge all the photos

The cafe is in the back, but open to the bar.  People kept coming up to Martha to say hi and congratulations.  We got to meet lots of people and hear lots of stories.  Unfortunately, I like to keep my friends, so all the stories are off the record.  We did hear about housing, fishing, work, people's kids, people who have moved away, people moving away, and lots of other stories.  

I took this picture for the sign.  You'll probably have to click on the photo to enlarge it and see it clearly. I was surprised to see people smoking inside.  But this is out in rural Alaska where people are still free.  To some extent.  (Not endorsing, just documenting.)

And here are the newlyweds, surrounded by the Coho's cookie jar collection.  The menu is mainly burgers - all with real meat - with fries or onion rings.  I had a bowl of chili.  

No One Cares About Your Blog

We met a number of people from the Hoover family that Joe has married into.  When picking up his new mother-in-law for dinner, we got to see the collection of art on her walls - her own work, her adult children's work, and pieces from other artists.  I also perused a couple of copies of ArtNews.  [The magazine version is a lot more appealing than the website.]  Interesting.  A nice way for someone living in Alaska to keep track of what's happening in the larger art world.

And then I saw this picture and thought, I need one of those T shirts!

I love it.

Mystery Yacht - Alucia - in Cordova

Last night people pointed out a yacht in the water near the ferry port that had a helicopter on deck.  People were wondering what celebrity might be in town.

This morning as we sat on the Alaska ferry, Chenega, waiting to head out, I noticed the mystery ship was just ahead of us.  After a week of almost rain-free weather, today Cordova was socked in and I had to shoot through through a raindrop dappled window.

I got a better view as we finally left the dock. (A car waiting to come on board couldn't start and we were 50 minutes late leaving but only 20 minutes late arriving in Whittier.)  I was able to get this clearer shot and saw through the binoculars that it's called Alucia.


Yacht Insider gives some history:

"Alucia originally was a submarine tender built by the French in 1973 and called Nadir. Her current owners have all but obliterated that persona, having just completed a rebuild that makes Alucia a private motoryacht with accommodations for scientists and documentarians alike. In addition to the yacht-like cabins aboard, Seattle-based Joseph Artese Design penned onboard laboratories, an aquarium, film editing suites, and satellite hookups for beaming live footage of discoveries to the world.

“Alucia has been built as a specific hybrid,” said Rob McCallum, who was the project manager in Washington state, working with Kirilloff & Associates on the rebuild naval architecture. “Alucia is capable of making the largest private contribution to marine science since Cousteau’s Calypso.”

A February 2010 Artesedesign (they design yachts) article identifies Mike McDowell as the owner:

“We wanted an expedition yacht with formidable ability,” explains owner Mike Mcdowell. “and that’s what we got.”

. . . A notoriously staunch vessel in the face of rough weather, Nadir caught the eye of McDowell, an australian adventurer passionate about science and oceanographic exploration. Mcdowell had earned a reputation by leading tourists and amateur explorers on expeditions to the distant reaches of the globe. some of his adventures included taking russian icebreakers to the North Pole and diving to the bottom of the Arctic Ocean. Through his company, Deep Ocean Expeditions, formed in 1998, McDowell was among the the first to offer commercial tours to the Antarctic, leading dive explorations to Papua New Guinea and Indonesia, and eventually conducting submersible expeditions on deep ocean excursions. He was the first to dive on the battleship Bismarck and was an early visitor to the RMS Titanic with his submersible team.

Noticing the disconnect that often accompanies the design of expedition ships and the needs of their users, McDowell was inspired in 2004 to found Deep Ocean Quest and commission the Alucia rebuild. he wanted a vessel that could work comfortably in remote and challenging regions.

Who's Mike McDowell? A University of Queensland site offers this (and they have a photo):

A geophysicist in a former life, Mike has built a career from adventure and exploration in some of the most inaccessible regions on Earth and beyond. A leading innovator in expedition cruising and ecotourism ventures, Mike founded Quark Expeditions, pioneering the use of icebreakers to take expeditioners into the frozen reaches of the Arctic, Antarctic and the North Pole. In the late 1990's he founded Deep Ocean Expeditions, the first company to make abyss-rated submersibles available to the general public. More recently, Mike co-founded Space Adventures, a company successfully offering space travel to the public. Over three decades, Mike has specialised in nurturing bold, 'off-the-wall' concepts from concept to fruition. With Deep Ocean Quest and Deep Ocean Australia, he sees a unique opportunity to combine his passion for adventure with his lifelong interest in science and technology.

So, how can former geo-physicist adventures afford a ship like Alucia? We know from above that there was also a silent partner and we don't know how much each contributed. But it would appear that at least some of McCormick's customers have plenty of money.


AdventureCruiseGuides gives us a sense of how pricey Deep Ocean Quest adventures can be.  They say offer a 13 day program with a seven hour dive to the HMS Titanic for $60,000.

Sydney expedition cruise company, Adventure Associates (AAs), is offering places on the 11-hour roundtrip to the wreck in conjunction with Deep Ocean Expeditions (DOE) who have been taking paying divers to the depths since 2001. Australian Mike McDowell launched DOE in 1998 but is perhaps best known as founder of benchmark expedition cruise company, Quark Expeditions, in 1991. Coincidently, McDowell is also the new owner of AAs, having purchased the company from founder, Denis Collaton this year.

Before you rush for your Visa card, the 13-day program will leave you very little change from US$60,000 and you’ll spend just seven hours in contact with the wreck itself. And, yes, you pick up your own airfares. Can you take home a souvenir from the deep? Hmmm… let me ask.

But wait!  It appears she was sold May 2011.  From Boat International:

Stuart Larsen at Fraser Yachts tells me he and joint listing agent Tom Allen have sold the extraordinary 55.75m motor yacht Alucia.

All custom superyachts are by their very nature unique, but Alucia is something else again. She was originally built by the Auroux yard in 1974 as the support ship for the French research submersibleNautile. She was  completely stripped, rebuilt, rewired and re-equipped, while a thorough reworking of her superstructure gave Alucia a new submersible hangar, a sundeck and a helicopter pad.

She’s the only ship in the world to carry three deep-diving manned submersibles and this, in conjunction with her decompression chamber, mixed-gas dive support, powerful sonar and tenders, make her one of the most sophisticated  sub-sea exploration platforms ever built.

Her interior has been fitted out to superyacht standards and accommodates up to 16 guests in a master, double and four twins plus four Pullman berths. With a range of 10,000 nautical miles at 11 knots, Alucia was asking $38 million.  Her interior has been fitted out to superyacht standards and accommodates up to 16 guests in a master, double and four twins plus four Pullman berths. With a range of 10,000 nautical miles at 11 knots, Alucia was asking $38 million.

Stuart ponts out that she was used by Hollywood director Jim Cameron to discover the remains of Titanic and most recently as the mother ship to the Woods Hole scientific expedition that found the Air France wreckage off the coast of Brazil.

It's too late to contact Larsen tonight and I doubt he'd tell me who bought it anyway.  

Some other places you can learn about the Alucia:

The Deep OceanQuest site offers a detailed description of the  ship.
Super Yacht Times gives all the stats.

Cordova Sampler - Bear, Bridge, Ice, Wedding

This is just a sneak preview.  We spent a spectacular two days at the Child's Glacier then got back into town today for the wedding of Joe Senungetuk and Martha Hoover.  More on all this later, but here's an appetizer.

Child's Glacier

Million Dollar Bridge

About the Mendacity of the Press Then [and now] from Zola

Another quote - much shorter - from The Lacuna.

"But newspapers have a duty to truth," Van said.

Lev clucked his tongue.  "They tell the truth only as the exception.  Zola wrote that the mendacity of the press could be divided into two groups:  the yellow press lies every day without hesitating.  But others, like the Times, speak the truth on all inconsequential occasions, so they can deceive the public with the requisite authority when it becomes necessary."  

[Pre-posted in advance.We should be out of contact when this goes up.]

Historical Antecedents to Mayor Sullivan’s “Safe Mayor” Ordinance

Anchorage's Mayor Sullivan proposed a "Safe Sidewalk" ordinance, but I think it's more aptly titled a "Safe Mayor" ordinance.  It appears to be aimed at stopping one man from protesting the Mayor's anti-homeless crusade. [Looks like it didn't pass for now.]

 First he cleared out the homeless camps in the greenbelts.  More recently he’s asked the Assembly to pass a law banning sitting or lying on the sidewalk downtown, very clearly in response to a homeless man who has been doing that in protest of the Mayor.  He called it, I believe, “Safe Sidewalks” ordinance.  I'm calling it the Safe Mayor ordinance.

Kingsolver tells us of another time when the poor - veterans of WW I who hadn’t gotten their war bonus - sat in protest in Washington DC.  Sullivan, when asked if he would meet with the protester,  said something like, “No.  If this guy wants to talk to me, he can clean up and dress decent and make an appointment like everyone else.”

Knowing history helps put today into context.  While technology has changed greatly, individual human behavior hasn’t.  I’m reading Barbara Kingsolver’s The Lacuna while we’re here in Cordova.   Much of it takes place in the 1930s, in Mexico and the US.  She weaves in the current history of the day.  The incident below brings to mind Mayor Sullivan’s recent crusdade against the poor in Anchorage.  But there’s more that resonates with today.  Depression.  Congress turning down bills to help the poor.  It’s all happened before.

My posts are more complicated than some people think they should be.  I make them so, because life is complicated.  Things need to be put into context.  And what I write has much less context than they need, but more than one usually gets in mainstream media.  So bear with me here as I put this in context.  And note, by some coincidence, part of the events take place on July 28, 1932 and the date of this post is July 28, 2011.  Given the number of google hits with, “If I were born in 1908, how old would I be today?” I know that not everyone who gets to this blog can figure out that (1932) was 80 years ago.  That’s just a lucky bonus.

The main character of The Lacuna is Harrison Shephard, the son of an American bureaucrat and a Mexican mother, who returned to Mexico with Harrison when he was very young.  He’s now 15 and Mom’s sent him back to his dad to go to school in Washington DC.  It’s 1932.

Kingsolver throws in lots of little details, but they all seem to be there for a reason.  They set us up for little comments later in the story.  Here’s one that’s relevant to the quotes later.

[p. 86]“President Hoover is the greatest man ever lived,”  [Father] said, overly loud.  People looked.  “They’ve just had a telephone put in on his desk, for calling his chief of staff.  He can get MacArthur quick as snapping his fingers.  You think your president of Mexico has a telephone on his desk?”

  Mexico will be held as a grudge, then.  Probably for reasons to do with Mother.  Ortíz Rubio [President of Mexico] does have a telephone;  the newspapers say he can’t make a move without ringing up Calles first, at this house on the Street of Forty Thieves in Cuernavaca.  But Father didn’t want to hear about that.  People ask without wanting to know. . . [Yes, this kid is wise beyond his years.]

[pp. 96-7] May 5, [1932]

“A woman in a headscarf held up a naked baby toward our trolley.  The baby waved its arms.  A hobo jungle is unlike other jungles, where monkeys howl through the leafy air.  “What do they all want?”

“What does anybhody want?  Something for nothing acourse.” . . .

“But why so many of them?  And all the flags?”

“They’re war vetarans.  Or so they say, because vets are entitled to a soldier’s bonus .  they want their bonus.”  

Ragged men stood at military attention every few meters, like fence posts all along the edge of the camp facing the street.  Veteran soldiers, you could tell it from the placment of feet and shoulders.  But their eyes searched the passing trolley with a terrifying hunger.  “They’ve been here all week?  What do the families live on?”

“Shoe leather soup, I’d say.”
“Those men fought in France, with mustard gas and everything?”
Father Nodded. . .
So, can’t they get their money now, if they fought in the war?”
“I’d have  been there too in the Argonne,:  he said suddenly turning pinkish, “if I could have been.  Did your mother tell you I wouldn’t fight in the war?”
A subject to steer around.  “What’s the soldier’s bonus suppsed to be?”
Surprisingly, Father knew the answer:  $500 a man.  He is a bean counter for the government.  Five hundred bucks for risking a life in the war, so they could begin a new one here.  Congress turned them down, decided to pay out the bonus later when these men are old.  So they’ve come here from everywhere, wishing to take the matter up with the president.

“Does Mr. Hoover mean to meet with them?”

“Not on our life.  If they want to talk to him, they better use the telephone.”

McArthur’s troops are out with tanks, but Patton’s cavalry men on horseback get through the blocked streets easier.

[p. 106]
July 28, 1932“Between the stone wall and the crush of shoulders, it was hard to breath.  Over the sea of heads and hats you could catch sight of cavalrymen leaning down from the waist, on their horses, flailing their saber blades against whatever was below them.


  Against people.  That hit with a shock.  They were beating at the Bonus Army men and women with razor-sharp blades of sabers.”

[p. 107]July 29
It’s all in the newspapers today. . .
Gallinger Hospital filled to overflowing with the casualities. Any Bonus Marchers who made it to the Eleventh Street bridge joined the ones at the reiverbank encampment.  Mr. Hoover sent orders for troops to stop at the bridge, but MacArthur “couldn’t be bothered with new orders” so he mounted machine guns on the bridge and led a column of infantry across the Potomac into the encampment.  They set flaming torches to the canvas and pasteboard homes.  Exactly as Cortés said it:  Much grieved to burn up the people, but since it was still more grievous to them, he determined to do it.  [Remember, Harrison grew up in Mexico and he’d been reading about Cortés’ conquering the Aztecs.]

The late extra:  After sunset yesterday the flames in the Anacostia encampment rose fifty feet in the air and spread to the surrounding woods.  Six companies of firemen were required to defend adjacent property.  The president observed from the White House windows an unusual glow in the eastern sky, and conceded MacAruther was right to proceed with the routing.  In his opinion the Bonus Army consists of Communists and persons with criminal records.

Oh, yes,  One more Hoover telephone comment.  A joke this time:

President Hoover asked the treasury secretary for a nickel to telephone a friend.
Secretary Mellon said, "Here's a dime.  Call both of them."

We’re off to Childs Glacier for a couple of nights and, I assume, out of contact with the world.  I'll post one more ahead for tomorrow.

Cordova Fireweed

Just a quickie.  The fireweed is in full force in Cordova and attracting all sorts of flying critters.  And people seem to attached to it as well as the signs suggest.  We're headed out of internet contact - I'm assuming - for a couple of days at Child's Glacier.   I'm setting up one or two more posts for while we are gone.

Whittier to Cordova

A riverfall, not just a waterfall, was coming down the mountainside as we waited to get on the ferry in Whittier.

It holds 35 vehicles and two hundred and some people and gets from Whittier to Cordova and three and a half hours.  Too fast to see much.  And J didn't get seasick!

We sat 'out' in the solarium for a while.  It was protected from the wind, but after a while I was getting chilly and the noise was LOUD.

It was hard to read my book - The Lacuna - with all the scenery around us.  But I like the book.  And see?  There was some blue sky.

Looking overboard.

This is a very comfortable way to travel.  No pat downs or scanners either.

Almost in Cordova, which is on left (out of the picture.)

We're hoping to enjoy some Alaska time.  And visit friends.  

What Makes an Empty Lot "Empty"?

Language affects how we think about things. So, an empty lot is empty. Right?

In the US, an empty lot is one without buildings on it.  Despite the fact this piece of land has lots of flowers and grasses. It was woods once, of course, and not that long ago.  This vegetation has reclaimed it after someone bulldozed all the trees down.   It's home to birds and bugs.  And it filters rain water, keeping it from simply flowing into the sewers and out into the inlet.

We are human beings.  We need places to live.  We need common buildings for trade and other activities.  But we need a sensibility that sees that an empty lot isn't empty.  It's full of life and full of natural infrastructure that keeps our air and water clean, and provides habitat for small animals, insects, and the birds that feed on them.  And if we look closely, we see universes within universes.

Soon, riding around town, you'll hardly ever be able to see the mountains.  As fields get replaced by view blocking buildings.

I only intended to play with the idea of an empty lot, but it seems logical to take it a step further and raise Title 21.   You're going to be hearing more and more about Title 21 in the next couple of months.  After years of public process in which a new code was hashed out among all interest groups, Mayor Sullivan has asked attorney and former assemblyman Dan Coffey to go through and make title 21 more development friendly.  Developers had had years to get their issues raised and much of the ordinance was changed to accommodate their concerns.  Then the ordinance was provisionally passed by the Assembly.  The provisions were simply to make it consistent and clean up the language.

But Sullivan  seems to have hijacked this process and from what I'm told, Coffey has worked with the Building Association to change it even more to their liking.  Again, as I said, after all these negotiations and tradeoffs were made in public.  Now, they've gotten to work with Coffey out of the public light to make the code developer friendly and help keep Anchorage in the urban design dim ages.  It's not a done deal, but if people don't let their assembly members and the planning and zoning board know how they feel, it will be.

Cheryl Richardson has a compass piece on this you might want to check that outlines what has happened.  She's been a community activist for years, fighting for public transportation options and good urban planning.  She does it because she thinks it's important and doesn't get paid to do this.

Coffey claims the charges are baseless.   He's had $40,000 or so contracts from the city to revise the code to the Mayor's liking.  He's an attorney who favors the positions his clients want.  That's what attorneys do, so that's fine.  But as you read the two pieces, consider which account is more likely to be closer to the way things have actually happened.

US House Takes Economy Hostage

As I understand this, Congress has been using its credit card to fund a whole lot of things.  Some are required by past agreements - like Social Security and Medicare.  Others are discretionary, like sending US soldiers to Iraq and Afghanistan.

And they've spent past their limit.  This has happened before and a mechanism has been put in place.  Congress simply passes legislation that raises the debt limit.  (You'd think the fact that they've passed bills authorizing all the spending would be enough, but when they hit a magic number, the president has to say 'pretty please' to be able to carry out all they've told him to do.)

If they don't do that, the US government's income won't be enough to cover all its debts.  The government will have to sort through the bills coming due and decide which ones to pay and which ones to stall or skip altogether.  Up until now, the US economy has been the most dependable and investors - individuals, corporations, and governments - have chosen the US economy as a safe place to invest.  Because of the US's reliability, they've been able to sell bonds and other financial instruments at relatively low interest rates.

But if the US starts to default on some of its debts, then its credibility will go down.  And its credit rating.  A slow cascade of collapses is likely to happen.  Government contractors who don't get paid, will stop paying their creditors and both will lay off employees.  Those employees will spend less money and the places where they normally would spend money will run into trouble.  The recession will get worse.

That's the scenario economists of all stripes have been painting.  The Republican leadership has even said not raising the debt limit is unthinkable.  A Wall Street Journal article said it threatened the US' special standing in the world even.

BUT, there are enough Republicans in the House who have decided that if it is so unthinkable, they can make demands on the President and he'll have no choice but to comply if he wants to raise the debt limit.  So, instead of just passing the bill to increase the debt ceiling to equal the budgets they've passed, they've taken this vital piece of legislation hostage and have told the president that if he doesn't meet their demands, the debt ceiling increase is dead.  

Sounds like a kidnapper or a hijacker to me.

Essentially, they are saying, if you don't meet our demands, we will let the air out of the American economy.  We've got the debt limit increase hostage, and if you don't bow to our demands, we're killing it.  We know it won't be pretty, they are saying, but the ends (apparently) justify the means.  Yes, we know people will get hurt, but they'll get hurt worse in the long run if we don't reduce the national debt. The President agrees the debt needs to be lowered.  But he understands that government spending, during an economic slump, is necessary until the economy revives.  And he doesn't want to hurt people already hurting.  So he wants to include taxes on the wealthiest Americans as part of the debt lowering strategy.

I've looked up terrorism and there's little agreement on a definition.  It seems officials want definitions that paint their enemies as terrorists, but are careful that they won't fall into that category themselves, so they can't agree.   While the House Republicans seem to be acting on their conservative ideology (one of the definitions of terrorists) one might argue that they aren't using violence to terrorize the population (another part of the most basic definitions of terrorism.)  So, technically, we might not call them terrorists.

But if they cause an economic crisis that worsens the US economy, I'd argue that they will cause far more deaths (because of cutbacks in services at all levels) and damage than the terrorists who took down the World Trade Center.   House Majority Leader Eric Cantor, for one, is willing to risk the standing of the US economy to get what he wants.  Back in April:

In exchange for raising the debt limit -- long a routine move allowing the Treasury Department to borrow more money -- House Republicans will demand further concessions to shrink the government, Cantor said.

"There comes at times leverage moments, a time when the president will capitulate to what the American people want right now," he said. "They don't want to raise taxes, they don't want borrowing to continue out of control."

[I went to the original source - Fox News - but could only find their transcript which was substantially the same, but either they garbled it, or they quoted Cantor verbatim.  It seems the Huffington Post (above quote) captures it pretty accurately and more eloquently.] 

It's common for politicians - and all those trying to wield power for whatever goals - to make their demands in the name of the people, rather than to say, it's simply what they themselves want.  Cantor calls it a "leverage moment," and from a purely utilitarian perspective, it is.  Other leverage moments include when someone has a gun at your head on a dark, empty street.  Or when someone's kidnapped your spouse and now demands $200,000 in unmarked bills by Friday or else.

(While there are times when 'leverage points' might reasonably be taken advantage of, one that risks the US economy and the well being of people around the world, is not one of those.  However, I would say that the Democrats need a modern day Tip O'Neil to help them work the rules of the House to counter this.)

I just don't see how this is different from blackmail.  If you don't do what we want you to do, we're going to inflict severe damage on the economy.  These are small minds at work.  The way they solve problems is by force, by bullying.  By tearing down, not by creating new options to work this out. These guys don't trust anyone who doesn't think like they do.  Maybe, because, like most of us, they believe others think like they do, and they think:  "Take no prisoners."  There's a reason they are called "Young Guns."   Subtlety and nuance doesn't seem part of their grey matter.

That's how  I see it.  Could I be wrong?  It's happened before.  If we default, will the world sigh a breath of relief knowing the Republicans are finally getting the US finances in order?  I wouldn't bet on it.