Dilly Haat and Hauz Khas

Last night K. Angela and Kuldip Nar hosted us and two other conference attendees for dinner. First they took us to Dilly Haat - like a Saturday market sponsored by the government where crafts people can sell their wares without all the middlemen taking all the profit. They get two weeks in one of the booths. Then we went to a part of town called Hauz Khas



that, as I understand it, was some sort of experimental village early on. Now it is a fashion area. Nevertheless, cows were wandering by for an evening stroll. The restaurant they wanted to take us to was no longer there. It would have been interesting to say the least. We went through an arcade in a building - not lights - and then the stairs went down into a tunnel. Lucky Joan bought a flashlight. But instead we walked over to Park Baluchi - also an interesting restaurant (musicians shown in previous post).

Kuldip and Angela run a website - www.responsenet.org - aimed at helping organizations that do development work communicate about what they are doing and connecting with others doing similar work. (I should have taken a picture of Angela - she is much more photogenic! But I must say, this is a particularly bad shot on my part.)

Eating in Delhi and ...Mumbai

This is Anil at the FACT Guest House. He did everything there including cooking our delicious breakfasts and one dinner. Here he is in the kitchen preparing our morning parantha.






After the Qutab Minar, we followed Lonely Planet's advice and walked down the street to the white building with the blue gate and ended up in the Olive Bar and Kitchen - reminding us that there was a lot more to Delhi than we knew.





Last night we ate at Park Baluchi with K. Angela and and her husband Kuldap Nar, more on that later. These were the musicians at dinner.

Qutab Minar

Qutab Minar was built around 1200 by the early Moghul rulers of India. The tower is amazing and the grounds are well kept. We walked around for several hours


This is a World Heritage site that is not too far from the University.









Here's Joan just enjoying this relaxing space.

Indian Birds

Some pictures from my first morning at JNU. The campus is a wooded oasis in New Delhi. Dianne, These are for you!! That morning I learned new digital camera tricks, but only after I took these. But now I can adjust the light so I get the right light for my subject and I discovered there was more to my zoom than I knew.

"It's my duty" Nishant and Nitin

Yesterday evening when Nitin (right on the picture) came over to give us the train tickets to Amritsar (680Rupees, about $16 for both of us one way in the express train) and to give us a cell phone so they could contact us if necessary, I thanked him several times. Finally he said, "Why do you thank me? It is my duty." I know this duty from Thailand. He and Nishant (on the left in the picture) are Roly's cousins. She told them we were coming and they have taken over all the arrangements for our travel after the conference. Train tickets, drivers to pick us up and drop us off, hotel rooms, air tickets, and for the Agra (Taj Mahal) and Rajistan portions, a car and driver for the 5 days. As relatives of Roly, it is their 'duty' to take good care of us and they are taking incredible care of us, thinking of every little thing. Driving over to campus to meet with us, even though we might not have been there. But now we have been forced into the cell phone world, they can contact us. This sort of familial loyalty and obligations (and they really do not seem to mind at all) was one of those invisible commodities that I came to appreciate long ago in Thailand. While the West's commodities are very tangible (fridge, cars, computers, etc.) the rest of the world has this intangible wealth, wealth that is invisible to visitors unless they become the recipients of it as we have. Anyway, Nitin, even it it is your duty in your customs and we are in your country, we can also share our customs here with you - So thank you very, very much for all the incredible work you Nitin and Nishant are doing to make sure our trip will be easy and memorable.

The picture below is the front room of our JNU housing. I'll need to get a picture of Nitin brilliant smile later. And also, I must say, Nishant has done most of the work and so a giant thank you to him too.

Street Signs to Cut Pollution

Getting lost is something pretty common here. Our first night was apparently typical. There are almost no street signs. Taxi drivers get close and then start asking people until they find it. Fortunately, you settle on the fare before you go so it isn't affected by all the dead ends. I'm guessing people could save a lot of fuel and cut pollution if they just put up good signs. People have said Dehli has grown really fast and that has something to do with it. But we didn't see many signs in the older neighborhoods either.

Or maybe it's just an Indian thing. You know, mapping is just a form of Western control. You learn by looking around and discovering things perhaps you didn't know were there and weren't looking for.

Poverty Conference at JNU

The JNU campus is a wooded oasis in the suburbs of New Dehli. Still the sky is extremely hazy, and the campus is in the flight path of the domestic airport. The various panelists have been presenting a lot of case studies of programs such as those that involve domestic violence, the affect of women working overseas in Sri Lanka, different sorts of court systems - official and informal - to solve local disputes. Good presentations. Meeting lots of people, some old friends. Stimulating conversation.

Joan is also busy with people from the conference.

Lots of wonderful food, hospitality. Great birds all around - peacocks wandering the campus. Even got to run yesterday morning. There's really little traffic and there is a large sports field that people walk and jog around in the early morning. India is feeling much more comfortable.

We got out to Qutab Minar (google it, don't have the pics off the camera yet). It's amazing the things we don't know exist here. This is on the world historical treasures list and we spent several hours wandering around the grounds.

There's a strike (Bandh) going on downtown. The police were shutting down illegal shops and the traders (shop keepers) are on strike. So all the shops are shut down and schools have been shut down. We know this from the tv. On campus here we are totally isolated.

A quick update

We've moved to the JNU campus. (Jawarhalal Nehru University) We're getting comfortable with Delhi. The first day to the tourist areas was misleading. The stereotype pictures of the crowded streets is not really typical of the rest of Delhi. I'll post a couple of pics here. First, view from an autorickshaw.



Then view of the Red Fort.


Next the Guest House we stayed at.




And finally lunch with Winnie Singh and her husband - a contact through CH in Anchorage. He just retired from the army. They are working on AIDS prevention projects through their organization MAITRI - www.maitri.org.in - don't have time to
do the link now.



As you can see, we found a place to download pics onto a disk. Have a bunch of new ones to download. Roly's cousin Nishan came over yesterday and took us to JNU where we planned out the rest of the trip. Amritsar to see the Golden Temple, Agra to see Taj Mahal. Then to Rajistan for 4 or 5 days. Then fly to Kerela and come up thru Cochin and Goa to Bombay (now Mumbai). Inland to see the Elora caves. Then back to Delhi in time to fly home. He travels around India all the time and is making arrangements for a car and driver for the first part and connections for the rest. So there will be lots to post. We Americans tend to be so ignorant about India - as we devour Lonely Planet India and an anthology of India travel writing, we are getting quite excited.

The conference starts tomorrow. Rashmi has arrived and we meet him here in about 15 minutes so I have to run.

First Day Getting our Footing

I didn't take many pictures and I'm afraid i can't write the hundreds of thousands of words to make up for them. Some quick notes. Breakfast cooked specially for us - the parantha brought to the table hot from cooking, the curry too. The autorickshaw zipping through the streets. We'd read about touts, but still were not prepared for everyone on the streets to to come up to us, offer us assistance, generally telling us not to go where we wanted to go (The shops aren't open yet, it's Muslim sabbath, no one is there, it's full of pickpockets, better come this way; there's a strike over there, it will be over in an hour, now you might want to go shop in the government emporiums, etc.) Slipping into McDonald's (something we never do at home) just to be able to look at the map and Lonely Planet India without a bunch of people all over us. But they were nice, charming even. We wandered around trying to find our way at Connaught Place - the center of Delhi according to the book, but really the center of tourist Dehli. We eventually slipped into the subway - opened recently - and for 18 Rupees (about 40c) for the two of us we were whisked to old Delhi and the Red Fort. We came up out of the subway and were suddenly in the India of movies. A narrow street, tiny shops on each side. people moving everywhere. Food stands, car repair, and we even saw our first cow. I felt taking pictures was intruding, besides I didn't think I could stop. I felt conspicuous as the foreigner, even though almost no one bothered us in this part. Eventually we got to the Fort. I was frisked along with all the other men (as I was getting on the subway). Women in a separate line, got frisked by a woman. Running out of time in the internet cafe. More tomorrow. Some pics of the Fort.

Night in Dehli

It was dark as we flew over Afganistand and Pakistan. The lights of towns were soft and barely visible. The light outside the airport in Delhi was also a soft yellow glow. This was in sharp contrast to Newark where we landed after dark from LA on the first leg. There the lights seemed to be an attempt to turn night into day. Now, in Dehli it seemed like the lights were just a slight imposition on the dark, just enough so people can find there way around.

As we came down the stairs toward the customs, we saw a man holding a sign with our names. He whisked us through to a special counter where we waved through. Then into a car. Besides the soft light, the first thing I noticed was the air. The temperature was comfortable, on the border between warm and cool, but not quite either. And the air was thick with the smell of coal and you could see it. Neither the driver nor Raghav
knew exactly where we were going. The picture at the top shows them asking for directions for the third time. The dark image gives a sense of how we felt. But this man was sent by Rashmi's uncle so we didn't worry. Eventually we got to the guest house. Got checked in and into our room. We slept well to the next morning.