Kamphaengphet

Kamphaeng means wall. Phet means diamond. KPP was the southern town in the Sukhothai period. And I'm here, where I taught as a Peace Corps volunteer nearly 40 years ago. It was a long bus ride to Phitsanuloke (6.5 hours) then we were picked up there and brought to Mook's home, on the edge of the sugar cane fields. We had dinner at at Chinese restaurant in town, Mook invited some of my old students, a couple of old teacher friends, and some others. It is amazing seeing all these people again. I came back the first time about 20 years ago, then the following year, and then three years ago. What I've seen of the downtown is totally unrecognizable. This is just a quick post, got to get to bed, we leave tomorrow early for Maesod, where we get picked up by Somprasong and drive to Umphang.

Pictures later

Back in Korat. Finding time and decent computer links has been tight. I taught all day today and again tomorrow. We take the bus Monday to Phitsanulok where Mook will pick us up and takes us to Kamphaengphet. There will be a dinner at a Chinese restaurant with old students and friends invited. Tuesday morning we head for Maesod, on the Burmese border where Songprasong will pick us up and we head for Umpang. We'll stay there two nights, go back to Kamphaeng, and then Friday back to Korat for next weekend's class.



If you look in the upper right part of the map, you can see Khon Kaen and Ayuthaya. Korat is in between them, maybe the n in Thailand. Maesod is to the west, just above "Burma" on the map.

Goodbye Idiris

Mook – a former student – called to let us know that Idiris passed away on February 14, 2007. That was our first day in Bangkok. Idiris was one of the three young male faculty when I arrived in Kamphaengphet in 1967. But he was different. He was Muslim. He generally ate only fruit and obviously halal foods with other Thais; he bought meat from the Muslim butcher in town and usually cooked his own meals. He lived in a small room in the corner of the school, not far from the house I lived in on campus. We spent many evenings sitting and talking about the world. He taught French and English, but he was much better in French. Much later, after I had left Thailand, he was able to travel to France. I think he stayed six months or a year. He also read the Koran in Arabic. He was much more introspective and serious than most Thais. Idiris was one of the most decent, thoughtful, and caring people I have ever known. He was a good friend to me – both of us somewhat outsiders in this culture. And he had a smile as big as the sky. When we visited Thailand in 1988 with the kids, Monica slipped in with his three daughters so very easily. In summer 1989 he arranged for me to visit Umphang with one of his former students, a police captain. Umphang is a small village on the other side of nowhere. First you go to Maesod – a Thai town over the mountains on the Burmese border. Then on a small road, you go south about 3 hours. There was this sleepy little village. I stayed with the police captain. No electricity, no running water. Last time we saw Idiris was 2003. We stopped by for far too short a time. Even though he was having some health problems, we were talking as if we saw each other every day. We laughed a lot in the nicest sort of way. Mook was calling to arrange a time for us to visit on this trip. Idiris’ daughter told Mook the sad news. We’ll go by to visit Maliwan, Idiris’ wife, next week - on the way to Umphang, where Mook has arranged for us to visit with another former student – Songprasong – who, if I understood right, is the principal of a school there. Good bye Idiris. The world is a little dimmer because you are gone. My life is a lot dimmer knowing I will not see you again.

Doctoral Dissertations

We're back in Bangkok so I can sit in on doctoral dissertation defenses. Last night there was a really good one looking at perceptions of male and female 'leaders' in Thailand. The theoretical background of the dissertation was quite good. Then afterward we all went out for dinner.

Frank

Before we left Bangkok, we had dinner with Frank Gold who teaches at the same university here and is from Fairbanks - taught at UAF and has lived there since 1964. We'd met him briefly when I taught here three years ago.

Chinese New Years

This is where you can dress up in old Chinese costumes, have your face made up, and get your picture taken.



The video for Chinese New Years with the fireworks, lion dance, Chinese opera, and rock and roll show is below in an earlier post. Here's more about the evening.

Yellow and red were the colors of the evening. Dragon dancers, firecrackers, beauty queens. The largest bami noodle stir fry in Thailand (about 20 feet in diameter with seven or eight chefs stir cooking it. My internet options aren’t quite clear yet, so I’m not sure if and when I can get some of the pictures and videos up. Chuck and his wife introduced us to various people, including their parents (not sure if his or hers). People talked to us everywhere. In line for noodles, a lady gave us two coupons for the noodles. Other people gave us sealed cups of water. Wherever we went people smiled graciously. The tourist association of Thailand had scores of
people out giving surveys to foreigners about visiting Korat for Chinese New Years and we got red envelopes with 1 baht in them when we finished. And then there was the traditional Chinese opera in a stage built into a large truck trailer, similar to what I remember from Kamphaengphet almost 40 years ago.
In fact the whole evening felt very comfortable and familiar. Being in a large evening festival with stalls of different kinds of delicious foods. There was one though that was basically cooked insects – worms, beetles, and I’m not sure what else.
I did eat beetle once long ago, but I couldn’t finish it. Though when I had it as a paste it was really good. Just when you can see what you’re eating it’s a bit disconcerting. As much as I really like Chinese opera, it was really difficult because at the other end of the square there was a rock n roll stage with speakers at full blast. And a video screen showing the musicians for those sitting further back.

Everything was easy and comfortable. People had told us that it was safe to walk at night here and we felt very safe. I have class tomorrow so time to quit for now.

Class

I have six students – three MBA students, three doctoral students. And then there were four more doctoral students who don’t need to take classes anymore, but wanted to sit in. We talked about the book mix up and I now have an array of power points I can choose from as the need arises. We went over my patterns of tension concept and did a lot on ways of knowing and models.

Students working in small groups.

The students were willing participants and no one fell asleep. The age ranges from late 20s or early 30s to about almost 50. About equal men and women. We already have offers to show us the nearby National Parks. And tonight Chuck (a nickname he picked up in Tennessee where that was a close to his last name as they could get) took us downtown by two of his gold shops (his great grandparents came to China over 100 years ago) to the town square where a thousands of people, mostly in yellow polo shirts were sitting in chairs listening to speeches in celebration of the beginning of the Chinese New Years. And he’s already invited us to a classical Thai music concert March 4 before class.

But by Sunday afternoon, there are signs that they were expecting a more traditional class covering 'current issues in management.' They want 'leadership' and 'organizational culture.' But I'm giving them material much further along than that. But since we are covering 'ways of knowing' I'm hoping I've set the foundations for them to see that their filters are looking for specific things, with specific names. But I'm covering material they have never heard of, not the labels they are looking for. We'll get there.

Thailand is not India

India really is unique. Sometimes in India I just wondered if I’d forgotten what it was like in Thailand. But the ride to Korat – about 2 ½ hours, sometimes at 140 km/hour – was on a beautiful road with yellow lines in the middle and well marked lanes – usually two plus a side line. There were no bicycles, ox carts, camel carts, or slow moving vehicles. No pedestrians.

And the people are …what can I say? Thais have always been among the friendliest and most hospitable I’ve ever met. And after India, those qualities are even more pronounced. That isn’t to say that Indians weren’t friendly and nice, they were incredibly so. But the Thai food stand owners just smile and offer you something and if you smile and nod your head no, they give you back a sincerely warm smile.
On the Rote Song Thaew (pick up truck (Rote) with two (song) benches (thaew)) tonight, first one young man got up for a woman, and then when another women got on, the other young man stood up and gave her his seat. There was no hesitation, just automatic. You don’t see that much anywhere in the world these days. And the first Rot Song Thaew wasn’t going to the hotel, but she said that we needed to be ‘waaaay’ over there and said get in and we’ll drop you off. No charge.

This is not a put down of India. Few places compare well to the friendliness of Thais. And here in a provincial capital – the third largest city in Thailand with about 200,000 people – is a totally different world from Bangkok. Korat was the site of the largest US air force base in Thailand during the Vietnam war, so they had a lot of Americans here then. And we see a number of Vietnam era looking white men with Thai women of about the same age. So I’m guessing they’ve come back, are visiting relatives, or have a second home here.

Chinese New Year in Korat

Thanks to an adept student, this video is ready to post. More later. This was at the Chinese New Years Festival in the center of Korat, Thailand last night. I must say it felt wonderfully normal to me - just like many festivals I attended in Kamphaengphet many years ago. Except for the Rock n Roll.

Bangkok Day 1

Day 1 in Thailand (Bangkok)

Breakfast buffet in the Ibis Hotel in Huamark (near Ramkhamhaeng University who I’ll be teaching for) had this great drink that tasted like ginger. And it was NamKing – Ginger juice. It’s the tea colored one in the middle. Not many pictures to show.. We got up, surprised at the blue, blue sky with big, but not threatening clouds and reasonably clear air, and wandered around getting our bearings. We’re not at all in the tourist section, but right in the middle of many Thai malls and the main street – Ramkhamhaeng – is lined with little shops and street stalls. There’s a khlong (canal) down the soi (side street) we are on and you take a boat taxi into downtown Bangkok. But we slowly wondered down to the University, less than a mile away. The humidity wasn’t bad at all, though in the sun it did get pretty hot. I was nicely taken care of, getting my reimbursement for the plane trip, hotel, taxi, and payment for teaching. Met some of the other faculty – mostly retired male faculty, including Frank Gold from Fairbanks. And got access to the internet and made arrangements for getting to Korat on Friday morning. Thawisak, who was the van driver when we were here in 2003 will be the driver. We like him a lot, so that was nice. I’ve been reviewing my Thai for three or four months now, listening to tapes, working on my reading, and it’s paid off. My available vocabulary is much better than it was when we came in 2003, but I do still have trouble catching everything that people are saying to me. My Thai is good enough that they assume I can understand more than I can. And when they use English words and I’m thinking they are speaking Thai, it is really tough. And Sommai’s few Lao lessons really impressed them. In the Northeast of Thailand they speak a dialect that is more similar to Lao. Sommai taught me how to say ‘hello’ ‘delicious’ and ‘don’t worry.’ Someone commented that my Thai was good, but I would need to Isaan (the dialect) in Korat. So I showed off my couple of phrases. We bought a myytyy (hand carry) phone. The lady was great and very patient with all my questions. When I was a Peace Corps volunteer some people would keep talking to me because they thought my accent was so funny. I think that might have been the case here.

We ended up napping when we got back and eating in a fast food looking Thai restaurant in the mall. Food was good. Called Mook (my former student in Kamphaengphet) again, this time with the cell and 1-2 card he’d suggested. But then I got a message saying I needed to recharge the card. I guess will go back by the phone shop and ask what’s going on. I only called him twice and we didn’t speak long, even though they said I’d be charged per call, not per minute. I must add, that phone shops are everywhere. If anyone is interested, the used Nokia was about $34 and the card was about $8. And the lady said I could sell her back the phone when we leave. She even gave us a little pink phone sock for Valentine’s Day.

These are three different islands of phones for sale in this small section of this mall. We bought the phone at another mall.