Chiang Dao Big Tree

Coming back from the cave we saw a big tree. Not just any big tree, but one that reminded me of the big tree behind my house in Kamphaengphet long ago. So I looked through the pictures I digitized and found one that had that old tree in it. I've posted this picture before when I wrote about Kwai, but I wonder how many people noticed the tree in the background. This time, forget the kwai and the two people and notice the tree.







To show you how big this tree is, J agreed to stand at the bottom - where the yellow arrow is pointing. And then we discovered there were quite a few of these trees in the area, but we didn't see any quite as big as this one. But here's another that was pretty big.

Chiang Dao Cave and Temple

The temple was built right alongside the cave. This is the entrance to the cave. There are two men standing in front of the sign. But in Thai it said, "Entrance Fee 10 Baht." While the Thais often use Western numbers, they do have their own numbers, so ten looks like: ๑๐. Below that, in English, it says, "20 Baht Fee for Electric Bill." So the foreigners have no idea they are paying double what the Thais are paying. Basically, I have no problem with that. Most foreigners in Thailand have incomes considerably higher than Thais and they do need money for upkeep and Thais shouldn't be prevented from going to places like this because of the high entrance fee.

There's a small shrine just inside the cave. Then, if you want to go further, you have to hire a guide for 100 Baht (about $3). Our guide had a kerosene lantern and a delightful sense of humor.

The spots on the ceiling are bats. They were a lot easier to catch on camera than the ones outside our window. Later we saw what we decided was a bat flyway near where we were staying. We saw groups of bats fly by for the five minutes we watched there.

There came a point where the guide pointed to a small opening and asked if we thought we could go through. It was maybe two feet (2/3 meter) high. The other option was to return the way we came. She assured us it was only 1 meter long. The picture is after the hard part. No problem. But then a couple of rooms later, there was another tunnel that was five meters long, but by then there was no turning back.

Here's the fishpond in the temple grounds next to the entrance to the cave (in the background).

Yang Tone Farm Stay Chiang Dao 3

It's now Sunday evening. I've just gone through what in the old days would have been rolls and rolls of film and video. I've got a dozen posts here. Yesterday seems like a week ago. And these will all end up in reverse order on the blog to confuse things further.

Anyhoo, since it was only yesterday that I was gushing about Yang Tone Farm Stay, I'll finish that and move into Day 2 when we moved to the Chiang Dao Nest #2.

Here's the dining room where magic was performed back there in the kitchen.

Here's the cottage we stayed in.


Our front porch. There really were no mosquitoes, here or the dining room.


I'm in the bedroom shooting the sink in the bathroom.


The shower. Even though everything is made of traditional materials and much in traditional ways, the bathroom uses them in non-traditional ways.


We even had a guard frog who showed up in different interesting spots in the bathroom.

It was a hard decision to make to move on to our second night's housing. But we had reservations, it was closer to the cave and temple, and our Sunday morning ride was expecting to pick us up at Chiang Dao Nest #2 which was right on the road to the village we were going to Sunday.

Yang Tone Farm Stay Chiang Dao 2

This place is incredible, the food is amazing, I can't recommend it highly enough. And we got here by accident, the place we'd found on line was full and sent us here. They have a fancy website that their son created. But he doesn't check the email regularly. Call and leave your name. They speak some English, but slowly. Be patient. It's worth it.

Sweets after breakfast - which is whatever you want. I had a great bowl of Jok - a common Thai breakfast of boiled rice with various things in it. Well, it's not quite boiled rice. J had sunny side up egg and toast with jams made from fruit at the farm - mangoes, starfruit, langan.
This is the host Sriboon, the absolutely sweetest woman you will ever meet. And a great cook. And when she saw me taking lots of pictures she showed me special orchids to shoot. A magazine article about this place says her philosophy is giving people a chance to rest and get in touch with nature. Helping a guest find peace is more important than making money. Everything was just perfect, if you like nature, quiet, birds, and authentic Thai style (with modern plumbing.)
This is her husband Suwit. His English is quite good. He studied in the Philippines. Their son went to the University of Nebraska and works at the royal botanical gardens near Chiang Mai. I'm sure he learned a lot here at the farm. Suwit drove us over to the Nest this afternoon.

Papayas just outside our room

Joan says this is a heliconia and google images confirms it.

We aren't sure what this bird is. The book has several different birds that had parts that were right, but not the whole bird. There were a group of these. It had a black head and bib like a roufous treepie. It had a long grey tail with black stripes like long tailed sibia, and it had a red beak like a red billed malkoha. The green billed malkoha has a similar silhouette in the book, and is in this part of Thailand, but has green beak. Also, there are a couple of swallows. I've given up on identifying swallows because the colors are so hard to see when they are flying high above.

Mango orchard.

Big leafless tree, waiting for the rain.

Yang Tone Farm Stay Chiang Dao 1

The mountain just grows up from the plains, silhoueted by the pink sky, hazy in the late afternoon smoke.
As it got darker, we could see bits of flame. The point of Sunday’s event is to mark a new program where the farmers on the hill, Karen hill tribe people mostly, will begin building fire breaks. There is a lot of controversy about slash and burn agriculture which various hill tribes have practiced for generations. But today as the world has moved ever closer into their territory, they have less room, and the smoke from their farming impinges on the people in the cities more and more. In these days of global warming, the practice comes under greater scrutiny.
The giant orange moon rising just after we arrived.
The sun rising almost in the same place this morning.


We stayed at the Yang Tone Home Stay Farm because the Chiang Dao Nest, nearby, was full Friday night. Now we've moved to the Nest, which has wi fi, but the adapter plug that changes my three pronged Mac plug into a two pronged plug is the wrong size. I left the one that works in our apartment in Chiang Mai. So I only have about two hours of battery left.

The Yang Tone is incredible and I'll do a separate post on that. If you are in Northern Thailand, do what you can to stay at least one night at Yang Tone Farm Stay.

At breakfast after walking a couple hours around the farm watching the birds and flowers. See also the next post on this great little place. You can tell, if I like a place, I'll let you know, and this place is really special.

More Birds and a Squirrel

Today I saw the source of the strange bell like bird calls - a pair of racket tailed drongos flew by. It was them. But I couldn't catch them on camera. And the Koels were flying by in pairs as well. I guess it is spring.

And the doves. And for Anonymous, and Bird Anonymous, there's even a fuzzy shot of the coucal in the video with its tail. And audio of a racket tailed drongo at the end.

Spring 2008 - 99F and climbing

Suddenly there was a surge of visitors to this site today. It turned out that Google.co.th has What Do I Know? listed second for the search term "First Day of Spring".

That has as little meaning here in Chiang Mai, where it is in the hot 90s (My Computer says it's 99F, but the 30% humidity makes it fine with me), as it does in Anchorage where, according to my computer, it is 22F.

They are all being directed to last April 26 which I dubbed the real first day of spring when the temperature got up to 65F in Anchorage.

I've finally gotten my sense of purpose here - last week actually - and I've been developing lists of outcomes and tasks that relate to the plans the organization wrote as part of getting their grant. It is getting close to the end of the grant and people here are feeling a little overwhelmed with what they all have to do, including writing reports.

One thing I'm contributing is getting them to see that the goals are not just either/or - either you reach the goal or not. Rather, we can look at at how much they've done toward reaching the goal. So, for example, they are supposed to gather information for about ten villages. Rather than saying, "No, we haven't done that" because they don't have everything for every village, I've divided it up into villages. Then for each village we're listing the steps in this process. Set up an intitial meeting, pass out the questionnaires, get official land documents, etc. When they look at it this way, there are two advantages:
1. They can see how much they've actually done as well as what specifically they still need to do. (They know all this, but it is different when it is written down on paper and you look at it.) I've already started with one person to calculate the time he will need to do everything that is left. (At least the things we've identified. It is much less overwhelming than he thought. He's typed it all up in Thai and is already checking things off.)
2. When they report what they've accomplished to the funding agency, they now have all the steps along the way to report. They've been thinking either/or and haven't thought as much about all the work that goes up to getting to complete. So even if some goals haven't been completed, they can show they are 60% or 80% complete with a list of all they've done.

The reaction seems to be pretty positive to this approach. The boss is clearly pleased.

Other activities - I faxed in our absentee ballot applications today. When I asked about using the fax yesterday, E. pointed to a box - she'd just bought a fax machine. So we set it up yesterday evening and I got the forms in today.

Sunday, the organization has a big event up in one of the villages north of here. They have initiated a program of building fire breaks in the mountains with one of the hill tribes that has traditionally used slash and burn agriculture. I'm not completely sure whether the slash and burn techniques will still be used and how the fire breaks contribute. In any case it is a big deal and several people have been out of the office in preparation. I'm trying to arrange for us to stay up there at a small resort Friday and Satruday night where the birding is supposed to be very good. Then we'll get up to the village Sunday morning somehow. Things will work out one way or another.

Swinging Bulbul and White Rooster

I pass this rooster, and his friends, every day when I ride to the office.

And I caught this red whiskered bulbul from our balcony enjoying this swing. He came back for a second round.

Shaking Up the LA Public Integrity Unit

A reader alerted me to a story about the new US Attorney in LA breaking up the public integrity unit there. It's the Justice Department's Public Integrity Section, that along with the FBI, and the local prosecutors that is spearheading the investigations and prosecutions of corruption in Alaska. The LA, unit according to the story, had a long running investigation into Republican Rep. Jerry Lewis. TPM suggests preventing another Republican scandal was the motivation for the breakup.

If someone wanted to end the investigations in Anchorage, you can bet none of our legislators in DC would lift a finger to keep the investigations going.

From LA Observed:

Feds disband L.A. public corruption unit

Kevin Roderick • Bio • Email

New U.S. Attorney Thomas O’Brien redistributed the 17 lawyers in the public integrity unit in Los Angeles among the major fraud and organized crime sections, the Recorder reports. The San Francisco legal paper quotes spokesman Thom Mrozek saying those sections will have a higher mandate to battle corruption. “Our view is that it’s a significant enhancement of the public corruption unit,” he said. “We now have over 70 lawyers who essentially will be able to step up to the plate.” But the Recorder says "many other current and former federal prosecutors are skeptical." The unit is known to have a running probe of Rep. Jerry Lewis over ties with a lobbying firm, the paper says.

Wen Jiabao Speaking Live about Tibet on Al Jazeera

This morning as I was finishing breakfast and getting ready to go to the office, Wen Jiabao, the Chinese Premier's annual news conference with foreign correspondents was broadcast live on Al Jazeera*. After a brief talk, the first question came from a CNN correspondent who asked about Tibet and Taiwan - the two taboo subjects in China. (I'll elaborate on that at the end.) Basically, here's what Premiere Wen said about Tibet, paraphrased from my handwritten notes as I listened to the translator:

Rioters caused severe damage and killed people on the streets. The Governor of the Autonomous Region of Tibet has already addressed this question. The rioters have trashed cars, torched stores, and caused widespread destruction and disrupted public order and public life, causing loss of lives and property for the people of Lhasa.

There is plenty of evidence this was organized and masterminded by the Dalai Clique. The violence and damage refute consistent claims of the Dalai clique that they pursue peace. Their claims are nothing but lies. Lies cannot cover up facts. Strictly, within the constitution and laws, and with restraint, we have moved to protect the people in Lhasa.

Claims that the Chinese Government engaged in cultural genocide are nothing but lies. We are fully capable of maintaining public order in Tibet and at the same time helping to develop the economy of Tibet while protecting the natural environment.

He then turned to the subject of Taiwan and I headed out for the office.

When I taught in Beijing, Taiwan and Tibet were the two subjects that Chinese mostly agree on (and that Japan should make amends for what it did to China in WWII.) They are both parts of China and must stay that way. There are no opposing views that my students were ever exposed to. From the Chinese perspective, the impoverished people of Tibet were virtual slaves to the religious rulers of Tibet and the Chinese liberated them from this tyranny.

Now there are exceptions. There was a Tibetan student who, over dinner after I opened the way, talked about having been sent to boarding school at age 12 and not ever again living at home in Tibet - just back for short visits. There were some Han (the 93% majority of China) Chinese students with us at dinner who had never heard this view of Tibet.

One of my students - I was going to say brighter students, but they were all brighter - said to me later. I've thought about what was said, and thought about how the minority students are treated here and to me it looks like they get treated equally to any other student. I thought about this for a moment and then responded, "Probably you are right. But, remember, they are at a Chinese speaking university, learning about China, not at a Tibetan (or Mongolian) speaking university, learning about their own cultures. The discrimination took place long before they got to the university. Their cultures have been stolen from them. Their schooling has all been in Chinese, not their own language, not from their own cultural perspectives."



*Al Jazeera was much maligned when it first came on the scene as the Arab voice of the news out of Qatar. But as I was looking for the link today, I see that Allied Media Corporation, an Arlington, Virginia public relations company has a whole Al Jazeera page on its site. On most other corporate sites such a page would suggest that Al Jazeera was a subsidiary of Allied Media Corporation. I can't find anything that confirms that and it runs counter to what I've thought was true. Does anyone reading this know the connection? AMC also touts as its clients



I wonder what the folks at Terror Television (www.stopaljazeera.org) would think about that client list and corporate links to Al Jazeera.